• Introduction
• Vortec 8100 Engine Information & Specs
• Which Cars/Trucks Have The Vortec 8100 Engine?
• Vortec 8100 Tuning & Upgrades
• Vortec 8100 Reliability & Common Issues
• Vortec 8100 Engine Swaps
• Vortec vs LS vs Duramax
• Conclusion

Introduction

As you probably guessed, it’s not every day that we decide to review truck engines here on Drifted. Typically, we tend to focus on much smaller powerplants that can slide under your drift car’s hood. But, we found it difficult to ignore the mighty Vortec 8100.

You’d more likely be considering using this engine for towing your drift car to and from the track rather than swapping it in.

However, if drift car a swap is on your mind, please, be our guest, but make sure you share the outcome with us!

Given the weight of the Vortec 8100, the engine is admittedly more suited for big, heavy trucks rather than drift cars, where power-to-weight ratios are of high importance.

Although modern-day trucks’ typical choice is to opt for diesel engines, mainly for the fuel economy, the Vortec 8100 has a substantial die-hard fanbase that is ready to argue otherwise.

Initially introduced in 2001, the 8.1L capacity petrol engine is the biggest powerplant that Chevrolet fitted to their consumer-class vehicles, and remained so for its six years of production.

GM’s senior management must have sat down and decided that their previous 454 big-block wasn’t quite big enough, so it was time to go full retard.

The 8.1L monster succeeded the previous 7.4L Vortec engine, which had been in production from 1996 until Chevrolet stopped production upon its larger sibling’s arrival.

Also known as the 496, the 8.1L untamed beast was based on the 454’s 4.25” bore but introduced a longer 4.37” stroke, allowing for an insane 496 cubic inches of pure V8 power.

The engine certainly wasn’t a disappointment upon release.  Instead, it managed to convert many diesel owners back to gasoline power with its additional benefits.

Despite diesel engines being well-known for their impressive torque figures, this engine often matches its rivals in this sector before crushing them with horsepower figures.

With 340-horsepower produced at its peak performance, and up to 455 lb/ft torque (just 50 lb/ft less than the 6.6L Duramax diesel), this engine can tow just about anything you attempt to throw at it, and it’ll shamelessly laugh at the heaviest of loads.

Sure, the economy is undoubtedly going to leave you on first-name terms with the local fuel station attendants, but reliability plays a huge role here, and the 8100 is typically the cheaper option when it comes to overall maintenance.

Admittedly, you’re probably not going to opt for this engine if you’re doing the daily runs around town, but when it comes to hauling heavy loads, it’s a serious contender to even the highest-regarded diesel blocks.

The 8100 not only featured in GM’s vehicles, and it went on to feature in motorhome and marine applications as a cheaper alternative to expensive diesel offerings.

Once production ceased in 2009, they go down in history as the last of the legendary big-blocks, with GM instead favoring the smaller Vortec 5.3, 6.0, and 6.2L engines, most likely due to the tightening emissions legislation.

Vortec 8100 Engine Information & Specs

GM’s Vortec engines have indeed stood the test of time, and arguably the most well-known variations were the original 5.0L and 5.7L engines from the small-block Chevy V8’s, way back in 1955.

They released I4, I5, I6, and V6 variations in the mid-nineties, alongside three V8 engines to the series.

As GM replaced the 7.4-liter Vortec 7400 with the 8.1-liter Vortec 8100 in 2001, the engine would go on to ultimately mark the end of the GM big-block engines as we knew them.

Vortec 8100 Engine Specifications at a glance:

• Engine: General Motors Vortec 8100
• Engine Code: L18
• Displacement: 8,128 cc / 495.95 CID
• Aspiration Type: Naturally aspirated
• Engine Type: 90-degree V-8
• Maximum Horsepower: 330-340 hp at 4,200 RPM (Vehicle dependent)
• Maximum Torque: 440-455 lb/ft at 3,200 RPM (Vehicle dependent)
• Maximum Engine Speed: 5,000 RPM (Vehicle dependent)
• Cylinder Head: Cast iron
• Engine Block: Cast iron
• Compression Ratio: 9.1:1
• Cylinder Bore Diameter: 4.250 in (107.95 mm)
• Cylinder Stroke Length: 4.370 in (110.99 mm)
• Fuelling: Sequential multi-port fuel injection
• Ignition: Coil-Near-Plug, Platinum-Tipped Spark Plugs, Low-Resistance Spark Plug Wires
• Valvetrain: 2 valves per cylinder, OHV, cam-in-block pushrod engine
• Oil Capacity: 6.5 US quarts (with oil filter)

Built at GM’s Tonawanda Engine plant, the final L18 rolled out of the factory in December 2009.

As we briefly mentioned in our introduction, the Vortec 8100 is very similar to the Vortec 7400 engine, but with some game-changing touches.

While retaining the bore diameter of its 7.4L (454 cu in) predecessor, they upped the stroke by 9.4mm to achieve the 494 cu in displacement.

As well as lengthening the stroke to create the additional displacement, GM also opted for a new firing order alongside re-designed symmetrical intake ports.

Alongside the new firing order (1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3), they also integrated metric threads throughout the engine, utilized different oil pan rails, and featured a new 18-bolt head bolt pattern.

The 8100’s fuel injection system is almost identical to that used in the Gen III engines, even when it comes to the ECU’s spark and fuel tables.

GM’s 8100 utilizes sequential multi-port fuel injection with two valves per cylinder, operated by an OHV pushrod camshaft (cam-in-block).

When it comes to power delivery, the 8100 performs differently from what you’d typically expect from a petrol engine, providing a surprisingly flat torque curve.

With impressive torque figures starting at the 1,200-1,400 RPM range, this continues for around 2,600 RPM before falling just below 400 lb/ft at 4,000 RPM, with the peak delivery of 440-455 lb/ft (dependent on model year) achieved at 3,200 RPM.

It’s the undersquare design of the 8.1L engine, which helps it achieve its low-end torque capabilities, flattening out the torque curve, and providing a perfect solution for the truck-based engine.

These torque figures are vastly superior to the 8100’s economy-minded 6.0L successor, which achieved just and 380 lb/ft torque, which is why so many opted for the 6.6L Duramax engine instead.

The Vortec 8100’s horsepower delivery reaches its peak at 4,200 RPM with 320-340 HP (model dependent) before hitting the redline at 5,000 RPM.

We can’t disagree that these horsepower figures are a little disappointing for such a gigantic engine, but that wasn’t the goal in mind.

But, fear not, as we’ll explain later in this guide how you can extract this 8.1L engine’s true power potential if that’s your aim.

There was only one option for transmission with the factory Vortec 8100 - the General Motors 4L85E four-speed automatic. There was no manual option available.

Which Cars/Trucks Have The Vortec 8100 Engine?

Although the Vortec 8100 is often known for its use in boats and motorhomes, it’s best known for its application in the Chevy and GMC vehicles as an alternative to diesel competitors.

Here is a list off all the GM vehicles that came equipped with the Vortec 8100 big block:

• Chevrolet Avalanche 2500
• Chevrolet Express 2500
• Chevrolet Express 3500
• Chevrolet Kodiak
• Chevrolet Silverado
• Chevrolet Suburban
• GMC Sierra 2500HD
• GMC Sierra 3500HD
• GMC Yukon XL 2500

In addition, The Vortec 8100 was used in various marine and motorhome applications, including:

• Class A motorhomes
• Malibu & MasterCraft boats
• T-98 Kombat armored vehicles

Vortec 8100 Tuning & Upgrades

We’ve established that the stock power figures that this 8.1L engine puts down aren’t hugely impressive for the engines’ capacity, but thankfully there are several possibilities when it comes to going beyond GM’s limitations.

All it takes to unleash the full potential of this big block is some elbow grease and a visit to your local performance shop.

However, given its heavyweight cast-iron design, weighing in at over 750lbs, the 8100 is rarely the choice for those looking for performance.

Although it has had some success in the drag racing scene over the years, it’s certainly not as highly regarded as GM’s own LS engines when it comes to motorsport.

Thankfully, despite this, many truck owners have been keen to rip some savage burnouts and unleash the true potential that the 8.1-liter engine has to offer.

While you can install the likes of an exhaust system and cold air intake for small performance gains from the improved airflow, it’s the heavy hitters on the market that have caught our eye.

Let’s face it. Anyone knows that you won’t get the most out of this 8.1L engine has to offer by strapping on an aftermarket cold air intake.

Once you’ve installed things like high-torque cams and shorty headers, it’s time to see what the next performance steps are.

Vortec 8100 owners’ disappointing news is that the engine’s internals is not up to the task for big-power goals since this wasn’t GM’s aim.

However, there are plenty of options for significant power gains on the market if you’re willing to put in the work.

Raylar Engineering offers a variety of exceptional products to the Vortec 8100 market.

These include 8.1L upgrades such as:

• 2.9L Supercharger Tuner Kit
• Intercooler / Heat Exchanger Upgrade
• 90mm Throttle Body Upgrade
• Raylar 540cid Stroker Kit
• Big Power CNC Aluminum Cylinder Heads

The potential result? Well, they are more than impressive.

With their supercharger kit, the Vortec 8100 can make an impressive 600 HP and 690 ft/lb torque using the stock cylinder heads, 202 camshafts, and a forged bottom end.

If you’re willing to fit aluminum heads, stroker kits, larger camshafts, and smaller pulley’s, then you could be looking at substantially more power.

The twin-screw supercharger kit is capable of 8lbs of boost with the 3.375 pulley and up to 12lbs from a pulley upgrade.

With the Raylar Engineering 540cid Stroker Kit, you can potentially up your 8.1L displacement to an incredible 8.8L/540cid!

With tuning companies like Raylar Engineering adding their expertise to the Vortec 8100, it’s slowly becoming a tempting proposition beyond its typical truck-towing capabilities, especially with the aluminium head weight saving.

However, due to the limited production run and limited compatibility with other engines, especially when compared to alternatives like the LS, the 8100 will never overtake some of its rivals as the typical performance engine of choice.

Vortec 8100 Reliability & Common Issues

The Vortec 8100 is commonly known as a bulletproof engine, and they’re often known to go well beyond 300,000 miles without any issues beyond general maintenance.

As expected, typical wear-and-tear items will need replacing over time, and there are a few minor niggles, as with all engines, but with all things considered, they’re immensely reliable.

Many owners have reported that their trucks have rusted out before they could even reach the 8100’s true mileage potential.

The lack of power given the displacement works in the 8100’s favor when it comes to reliability, as the heavyweight cast iron head, block, and internals are all built with heavy-duty towing in mind, which means that the engine isn’t being pushed anywhere near its limits.

When it comes to traveling down the highway, it’ll likely put its diesel rivals to shame, and loads of 10,000 lbs at under 8,500 ft elevation will likely make you forget you’ve even got anything in tow.

Given that the 8100 often gets compared to the 6.6L diesel Duramax engine, almost all mechanics and owners will vouch for the 8100 winning hands down when it comes down to long-term reliability.

Although they’re minimal and certainly not frequent, here are some of the issues Vortec 8100 owners have reported over the years.

• Gas/Mileage Issues
• Fuel Pressure Regulator
• Oil Consumption Issues
• Crankshaft Position Sensor Issues
• Spark Plug/Wiring Issues
• Intake Manifold Gasket Issues
• Lifter Tick

Let us go through these reliability problems one by one and identify the causes behind them.

Gas/Mileage Issues

It is safe to say that the thirst for fuel is one of the Vortec 8100’s biggest drawbacks.

Sure, you’ll save money in gas by opting for one of the Vortec 8100’s diesel rivals, but you’ll lose out when it comes to the initial purchase price, enjoyment behind the wheel, and the long-term maintenance costs.

While we’re talking about gas, I guess this could be referred to as a ‘common issue’, although it’s one that you should have prepared yourself for when you opted for an 8.1-liter petrol engine!

For those of you looking for real-world MPG figures, you’ll need to expect to achieve as little as 6 MPG from the Vortec 8100, with the potential to achieve 10-12 MPG at the upper-end of the scale.

But, as mentioned previously, you don’t opt for an engine like this if you’re cruising around for no real reason. These are workhorses built for towing massive loads, such as a heavy boat or a camper.

It is also important to add that when you factor in the purchase cost, running the Vortec 8100 is actually $8000 to $10,000 cheaper than its diesel-powered Duramax counterpart.

Fuel Pressure Regulator

The FPR can sometimes need replacing as general wear and tear with high mileage motors.

The positive is that they’ve made it extremely easy to get to, so if you opt for the garage to replace it, expect to pay a minimal labor charge for this reason.

Oil Consumption Issues

Again, this isn’t a significant issue and is certainly not as bad as the newer Chevy engines with Active Fuel Management (AFM) systems.

Typically, the engine likes to burn off a little oil, which is nothing to be alarmed about unless it’s draining it. It’s a behemoth of an engine after all!

We would expect to fill around 1 quart of oil around every 2,500-5,000 miles, so it’s worth just keeping an eye on alongside your usual maintenance checks.

Although this issue doesn’t affect all Vortec 8100’s out there, it is better to be safe than sorry.

Crankshaft Position Sensor Issues

The crankshaft position sensor issue is the main gripe of Vortec 8100 owners and is likely to be quickly apparent when it goes wrong. This issue is widespread, and almost all Vortec 8100 owners know about it.

If you’re suffering from rough idling, frequent stalling/shutting off, the engine check light has come on, or the car won’t start at all, then this is likely to be the culprit.

The sensor’s job is to monitor the crankshaft’s speed and rotation, which is then sent to the ECU to control ignition timing and fuelling.

As you can imagine, when this goes wrong, it drastically changes how the engine timing functions, which can lead to a complete shut-down.

Most commonly found in pre-2003 vehicles, GM later realized and resolved the issue.

Unfortunately, resolving the problem is a rather mammoth task, which involves removing the front suspension to get to the oil pan, so we’d typically advise taking it to a mechanic unless you have extensive experience.

But, are you ready for a challenge and looking to remove the sensor by yourself? Then, we’ve got something to help you.

Spark Plug/Wiring Issues

Spark plugs are an essential part of internal combustion engines. As the name suggests, these provide the “spark” that ignites the air-fuel mixture inside the cylinders.

Spark plugs are a general maintenance item and should always be changed less than every 25,000 miles, or even more frequently if your truck is drinking oil faster than expected.

It’s also known that the wiring to the plugs can fail, especially if you live or spend a lot of time in hot climates, as the under-hood heat can degrade them over time. If you are having issues, this is worth checking out.

Intake Manifold Gasket Issues

Vortec engines are known for manifold gasket issues, and the 8.1L engine is no exception to the rule.

When the gasket has failed, you’ll likely experience an air leak, which can provide a lack of power, rough idling, slow acceleration, or a whistling sound from the engine bay.

If you’re able to hook it up to a computer to check the fault codes, this would likely show up as either P1174 or P1175.

If it doesn’t appear to be the gasket, it may well be worth checking out the manifold itself, as these are often known to crack or warp over time.

Lifter Tick

If the Vortec 8100 under the hood is giving off uncharacteristic ticking noises, it is most probably affected by the dreaded “lifter tick.” This is a widespread issue that is shared across the Vortec family of engines.

The lifters are responsible for opening and closing the valves. They sit on the camshaft and force the valves open by thrusting the pushrod into the rocker arms.

There are many reasons that can lead to this problem. Lifter issues, bent push rods, and oil deposits are three that immediately come to mind.

Although this issue sounds catastrophic, it really isn’t as bad as it seems. You know what? Most Vortec 8.1 simply ignore this issue and continue to drive their trucks, pretending like it never happened.

Vortec 8100 Engine Swaps

Engine swaps are all the rage in this day and age. But, has anyone been brave enough to swap this massive, truck-derived big block into their dream car?

Although people have opted for the Vortec 8100 as their engine swap of choice, it’s certainly not a commonly-chosen swap, mainly due to the weight, rarity, and lack of power.

However, if you’ve got space in your hood and you’re willing to splash the cash, we’ve heard of the 8100 swapped into the likes of old school Chevelles and Impalas.

Given the performance potential of the 8100 with the right upgrades and lighter aluminium head, it can sometimes be worth the effort for a truly unique build.

Keen to see a Vortec 8100 swap in action? Check this out:

And how about this video where a boosted Vortec 8100 spreads its wings on a dyno?

Vortec vs LS vs Duramax

You can’t search for Vortec online without hearing about its main rivals, GM’s own LS and Duramax engines.

Although these are wildly different, the Duramax is the standard argument when it comes to towing. Some prefer petrol, some prefer diesel, and they each have their advantages.

When it comes to the initial cost of purchase, the Vortec 8100 is likely to be much cheaper than the 6.6L Duramax, and we would also expect it to be cheaper for long-term maintenance since it suffers from far fewer issues.

Despite being diesel, the Duramax achieves just 50 lb/ft torque over the Vortec. However, the Duramax does have the upper hand when it comes to low-end torque.

The Duramax also wins hands down in the fuel department, but the Vortec trumps it when long-term maintenance costs arise.

While the Vortec is expensive to run on a day-to-day basis, the Duramax is likely to leave a more significant dent in your wallet regarding long-term ownership and high mileage.

When comparing the Vortec 8100 to the various LS engines out there, it’s an entirely different argument.

LS engines are lightweight for their size and designed with performance in mind. On the other hand, the 8.1L Vortec engine has reliability and heavy-duty work in mind.

If you’re planning on an engine for drifting, then the answer is simple, go with the LS engine.

The LS engines are lightweight, easily upgradeable, and there are far more available on the market. On top of that, there are also plenty of off-the-shelf upgrades, and parts are often interchangeable between the various LS models.

If you’re looking for a long-term reliable truck engine for towing your LS-powered drift car to the track, then you can consider the Vortec 8100.

Conclusion

For those of you looking for a heavy-duty, reliable engine for your tow rig, and don’t mind the cost of petrol over the long-term prices that could potentially arise from diesel engines, the Vortec 8100 may well be the perfect option for your needs.

We’ve frequently seen these engines achieve beyond 300,000 miles with simple wear-and-tear maintenance carried out, and thanks to their heavyweight cast iron construction, they are bulletproof.

Sure, the 6.6L Duramax will provide more torque, but the Vortec 8100 will kill it when it comes to horsepower.

With the upgrades on the market, the 8.1L Vortec has the potential to be turned into a real weapon if you’ve got the cash to splash to build a serious drag car.

The Vortec 8100 marked the end of an era for big-block Chevy’s, and GM opted to focus their attention on the more economical small-block 6.0L engine beyond its final production in 2009.

Sure, it’s an absolute gas-guzzler, but it certainly has its advantages, and if the weight and fuel prices aren’t an issue, it presents a near-perfect option for those that are considering opting for this fantastic engine.

Thanks for reading our Vortec 8100 guide. We’ll leave you with this video for your viewing pleasure.

So, there we have it! We hope that we’ve covered everything you could want to know about the Vortec 8100 engine in this guide. And if you are hooked, grab the classifieds and start your search for the cheapest Vortec 8100 for sale!

Considering a Toyota V8? Take a look at the underrated 2UZ-FE.

Thank you for reading our Vortec 8100 guide.

If you enjoyed this article, please share it with the buttons at the bottom of your screen. If you’ve found this information useful, then please take a moment to share it with other GM, Chevy, or drag racing enthusiasts. We appreciate your support.

Photography credits

We thank the following entities for the use of their photography in this article:

• Alden Jewell on Flickr
• crash71100 on Flickr
• Alden Jewell on Flickr
• 范 仲淹帮主 on Flickr
• Larry & Teddy Page on Flickr

The post Ultimate Vortec 8100 Engine Guide first appeared on Drifted.com.

Here, you can click on a particular section within this article, otherwise, scroll down as we cover everything you need to know about Honda’s K24 engine.

• Which Cars Have the Honda K24 Engine?
• Honda K24 Engine Specifications
• Honda K24 Tuning
• Honda K24 Engine Swaps
• Honda K24 Forced Induction
• Honda K24 Reliability & Common Issues
• Conclusion

Introduction

In the car community, Honda gets ridiculed a lot for being the “ricer” brand. Yet, we can’t ignore the impact its cars have had in the automotive landscape. Raise your hands if you remember the very first scene from The Fast And The Furious.

Since the Honda fanboys came out in force and criticized the lack of Honda-related content at Drifted, we’ve opted for creating some in-depth guides to keep them happy.

Let’s face it. There’s nothing more challenging to deal with than an angry Honda fanboy. (Just kidding!)

For those of you that are wondering why we’ve decided to check out the Honda K24 engine, it’s because Honda’s legendary K-series engines are immensely underrated. That’s right, we said it.

While you’re huffing and puffing about FWD rice-boxes, we highly recommend that you head over to our previous guide for the K24’s younger brother, the Honda K20.

*WARNING* The K20 guide contains RX7 FD’s with Honda powerplants! Too late? Whoops.

Part of the beauty of Honda’s K-series is the convenience when it comes to swapping it into some of the least likely chassis imaginable.

We’d forgive you for purely thinking along the lines of cheap, FWD cars when it comes to the K-series.

However, you may well be surprised to hear that it’s not actually that challenging to swap the K24 into just about any chassis, even when it comes to some of the rarer mid-engined cars.

V8 swaps have become increasingly common throughout motorsport, mostly thanks to their (mainly) reasonable price tags alongside convenience and ease of sourcing when it comes to parts and engines.

It also, of course, falls to their impressive reliability, power potential, and ability to handle forced induction efficiently.

But, what if we told you that the Honda K24 also ticks all of these boxes?

We’re not the only one that thinks this, either, and for that reason, Speed Academy have put them head-to-head in this video:

There’s a wide range of K24 engines located under the hoods of some of the most popular cars on the market, such as Honda Accord’s and CR-V’s, and this makes them extremely convenient and cheap to source.

They’re also impressive when it comes to off-the-shelf upgrades and aftermarket support.

So, if you’re looking for extremely high power potential, a K-series swap could well begin to make a lot of sense.

As the popularity of LS swaps increases, the K-series could emerge as the superior purchase over time, with so many drifters opting for the typical V8 route.

With an ever-increasing off-the-shelf aftermarket mounting and wiring options available for the K-series, it’s undoubtedly emerging as an underdog in the engine-swap world.

So, whether you’re looking for a cheap and reliable daily driver swap, or a fully boosted race setup that’ll be able to help you smash ¼ mile records, the K24 certainly needs to be a contender to consider.

Make sure you keep your eyes peeled later on in this guide, as we’ll unveil some of the unlikely K24 swaps that we’ve come across.

Honda’s K24 series has birthed several of the immensely popular K-series engines over the years, and there have been more updates and variations than most enthusiasts realize.

After its initial launch in 2001, the 2.4-liter powerplant debuted in the Honda CR-V with the original K24A1 variation.

Production continues to the present day with the K24Y and K24Z variants, but they’re probably not what you’re looking for, as we’ll explain later.

The K24’s design was remarkably similar to its predecessor, the 2-liter K20.

Still, it featured some additional bonuses alongside the more significant displacement, such as an enlarged bore and stroke, friction-reducing technology, and electronically controlled ignition timing.

We’ll venture a little deeper into what changed between the many variations of the engine later in our guide.

You can either use the navigation at the top of the article to go to a specific section or continue scrolling down if you’re interested to know everything there is to know about Honda’s potent K24 engine.

Which Cars Have the Honda K24 Engine?

There have been many changes made to the K24 engine over its lifetime, and we highly recommend reading on if you’re considering which variations are going to be best for your needs, particularly if you’re looking to tap into their tuning potential.

Here is a list of cars that are powered by some form of the ever-popular Honda K24 engine series.

K24A1

2002-2009 Honda CR-V

K24A2

2002-08 Honda Accord Type-S (Japan)
2003-08 Honda Odyssey Absolute
2004-08 Acura TSX

K24A3

2003-07 Honda Accord (Japan/Europe)
2003-07 Honda Accord Euro (Australia/New Zealand)

K24A4

2003-05 Honda Accord (U.S.)
2003-08 Honda Odyssey
2003-06 Honda Element

K24A8

2006-07 Honda Accord (U.S.)
2007-11 Honda Element
2008-14 Honda Odyssey (Japan)

K24W (Earth Dreams)

2013-17 Honda Accord (U.S.)
2015-19 Honda CR-V (U.S.)

K24W4

2013-present Honda Accord (Thailand/Malaysia)
2014-present Honda Odyssey (Australia)

K24V5

2017-present Honda CR-V (Thailand)

K24V7

2016-present Acura ILX

K24W7

2015-20 Acura TLX

K24Y1

2012-16 Honda CR-V (Thailand)

K24Y2

2012-15 Honda Crosstour

K24Z1

2007-09 Honda CR-V (RE3, RE4)

K24Z2

2008-12 Honda Accord LX/LX-P (U.S.)
2016-present Proton Perdana

K24Z3

2008-12 Honda Accord LX-S/EX/EX-L (U.S.)
2009-14 Acura TSX
2008-15 Honda Accord (CP2, CS1)

K24Z4

2008-12 Honda CR-V (RE7)

K24Z5

2010-15 Honda Spirior

K24Z6

2010-11 Honda CR-V (U.S.)

2012-14 Honda CR-V (U.S.)

K24Z7

2012-15 Honda Civic Si
2013-15 Acura ILX

Honda K24 Engine Specifications

Since there are so many engines within the K24 family, we’ll give you a quick rundown of their specifications. This will help you choose the best K-Series engine for your specific needs – be it for a drift car, a show car, or an autocross champ.

In addition, we’re going to break down the main positives and negatives of their commonly-found engines too. So, let’s get started!

K24A1

The K24A1 was the first engine that Honda released within the K24 range, which featured in the 2002-09 Honda CR-V’s, and came with 160 hp and 162 lb/ft torque.

The A1 was where it all began, and it was a very similar engine to the B-series engine, with impressive low-end torque production.

Although it features impressive performance, it has a compression ratio of 9.6:1. The K24 features more durable connecting rods and superior counter-weighted crankshafts over its predecessor, the 2.0-liter K20.

When combined with the more significant displacement and with the addition of a composite two-stage intake manifold, this allowed for superior power and torque.

When talking about Honda Engines, we can’t skip over the legendary Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control system, more commonly known as VTEC (just kicked in yo!). Check out the video below to learn more about this system.

Sadly for K24A1 owners, it has no VTEC mechanism on the exhaust cam, and mostly relies on twelve valves before 2,200rpm, with the other four coming into action beyond.

The K24A1 has become one of the most popular choices for engine swaps and conversions.

Thanks to similarities between the A1 and A2, you can straight-swap the A2’s oil pump, which you’re not able to do on other K-series engines.

The K24A1 has one of the best cylinder heads, which is similar to the lucrative Type-S head, and takes kindly to being ported, which allows for an impressive amount of airflow.

Alternatively, if you’re looking for an easy swap, then the Type-S head itself is also an option.

If you’re looking for the best out-of-the-box solution from the K24, then let us introduce you to the K24A2.

K24A2

The K24A2 typically earns the title of the most impressive K24 engine out of the factory, but it’s also gained a pretty high price tag because of this, which makes other variations more tempting if you’re not shy when it comes to tuning.

Featured in the Acura TSX, alongside the Honda Oddessey and the JDM Accord Type-S, the K24A2 was capable of achieving between 197-205hp and between 164-171 lb/ft torque.

This engine was known as the K24A3 in the European and Australian markets.

For the A2, Honda opted for a significantly updated bottom-end, and the compression ratio rose to 10.5:1.

Unlike the K24A1, this time, they opted for the i-VTEC system on both the intake and the exhaust camshafts. They also applied lightweight pistons, dual balance shafts, a forged crankshaft, and re-inforced connecting rods, along with improved cams.

For the 2006-onwards Acura TSX, the K24A2 got an improved air intake duct, from 70mm to 80mm, an upgraded throttle body, from 60mm to 64mm, along with enhanced intake valves, a new intake camshaft, and an exhaust upgrade.

The outcome of this was the best performance that was achieved from the K24A2, pushing out 205 hp at 7,000 rpm and 164 lb/ft torque.

Although the power figures grew from 197-205 hp with the new improvements, torque took a slight hit, going from 171-164 lb/ft.

K24A3

The K24A3 is the same engine as the K24A2, produced for the European and Australian markets. The Honda Accord and Accord Euro models made from 2003 to 2007 carried this 2.4-liter four-cylinder inside the engine bay.

Unlike the K24A2, the K24A3 didn’t receive an upgrade in its later model years, so power remained at the initial figures of 197 hp and 171 lb/ft, with a 7,200 rpm redline.

K24A4

The K24A4 block is often the most common choice for those of you that plan on swapping out the pistons since they can often be sourced for a reasonable price thanks to their popularity.

The K24A4 was based on the A1, rather than the A2, and featured a compression ratio of 9.7:1. It provided 160 hp and 161 lb/ft torque. You can find this engine in everything from the Odyssey to the Civic Si.

Several revisions included an RAA single-stage intake manifold and revised intake and exhaust ports inside the cylinder head, which most enthusiasts agree don’t flow as well as the A1.

The primary purpose of the K24A4 production was to meet strict emissions standards. Since the power barely differs between the two, we’d say that Honda did a pretty decent job.

K24A8

The K24A8 was a slight upgrade from the K24A6, which they refined to meet an updated environmental regulation. Debuting in 2006, the K24A8 powered the Honda Elemand, Accord, and Odessey. The improved fuel efficiency of this version made it especially attractive for these family vehicles.

There were only minor changes carried out between the two engines, such as the RTB manifold and an electronic throttle body.

Power figures increased slightly with this minor revision, allowing for 166 hp and 161 lb/ft torque.

K24Z1

Launched in 2007 for the Honda CR-V, the K24Z1 officially replaced the K24A1. The K24Z-family’s primary aim was to meet the ever-growing emissions standards, while still trying to build on the success of the K24A.

It continues the 9.7:1 compression, and provides 166 hp and 161 lb/ft torque, with a redline of 6,500 rpm.

For this version, the oil filter is relocated, and internal changes include a forged-steel crankshaft and an internal balancer unit.

They continued to use the later 1-stage RTB intake manifold alongside an electronic drive-by-wire throttle body.

A new, denser catalytic converter has also been introduced to comply with the increasingly harsh emissions standards.

Despite its focus on emissions, the K24Z-family still provides an excellent platform tuning and engine swaps and doesn’t vary much from its predecessors.

K24Z2

The K24Z2 officially replaced the K24A8 on the production line and conformed to the highest emission standards.

Featuring a 10.5:1 compression ratio, revised fuel injectors, an integrated exhaust manifold, and an R40 intake manifold, this enabled power figures of 177 hp and 161 lb/ft torque.

K24Z3/K24Z7

The K24 once again received a significant overhaul when it came to the K24Z3 engine, which arrived with the substantially heavier second-generation Acura TSX.

While the K24Z3 for the Honda Accord had a 10.7:1 compression ratio, which produced less power and torque, it was effectively a K24Z3 with a high-flow exhaust system, capable of 190 hp and 162 lb/ft torque.

On the other hand, the 2009-14 Acura TSX K24Z3 had an improved engine with 31mm exhaust valves and a modified i-VTEC system, also providing a compression ratio of 11.0:1 and an increase to 201 hp and 172 lb/ft torque.

For the CP2 and CS1 Honda Accord models, however, it also featured the TSX’s superior engine, which was also the same as the K24Z7.

Included with the K24Z3 are chain-driven dual balance shafts, i-VTEC on intake and exhaust camshafts, lightweight pistons, uprated rods, and computer-programmed fuel injection (PGM-FI).

K24Z4/K24Z5/K24Z6

In another minor revision, Honda once again had to update the K24Z1 to conform to revised emissions standards, which meant they once again had to use a 9.7:1 compression, this time with 161 hp and 161 lb/ft torque.

The K24Z5 and K24Z6 are similar to the K24Z2, but with minor adjustments. The K24Z5 was only available in China, and the K24Z6 was later offered on Honda CR-V models sold in the United States.

Honda K24 Tuning

According to us here at Drifted.com, “affordable” and “performance” are two words that perfectly describe the Honda K24 engine.

There is a wide variety of options when it comes to tuning the K24 engine, and some incredible power figures are waiting to achieve if you’re willing to put the time and money into unleashing its potential.

Not only that but, you’ll probably need to include some blood, sweat, and tears, and plenty of swearing, too!

We already know that the K24A2 is capable of achieving 205 hp and 164 ft/lb torque out of the factory with the Acura TSX, but what if we want to aim higher?

The general recommendation to get the best basic setup with the K24 is to buy any K24A cylinder block, along with a K20A2, K20A Euro R, or KA20A Type R head.

Be warned that this only applies to the K24A series engines. The K24Z cannot be used due to the pistons making contact with the K20’s cylinder head.

Although it may seem odd to use K20 parts, they feature superior valve springs and camshafts to the K24. If you opt for this route, you’ll also want to consider replacing the K24’s water pump with the K20’s.

With race bearings, high-compression pistons, rods, studs, an uprated flywheel, fuel injectors, an ECU upgrade, and a K20A2 oil pump, you’re likely to get about 260 horsepower.

If that’s not enough, and you want to go to 300hp without looking at the forced induction route, you can do additional internal porting, along with valves, cams, an uprated throttle body, a CAI, and uprated manifolds along with a full exhaust system.

If you’re willing to go down the forced induction route, then power figures start at around 400hp and are capable of rising to some pretty incredible power figures, if you have the cash to throw at it.

Are you considering building a 500-horsepower K24 engine? This video will show you how it can be done. (Okay, perfectionists, it’s more of a K27, but you get the idea.)

If you do have the cash going spare, then there are always K24 crate engines out there to consider.

Companies such as 4 Piston Racing, offer highly-tuned turn-key K24 crate engines, with their K340 offering 340hp at 9,000 rpm, right the way through to their full drag setup, which is capable of an insane 8.94-second quarter-mile.

Sounds perfect, right? Sure, just be prepared to pay the price! 4 Piston Racing will happily sell you one of these for a hair over $11,000.

The great thing about the K24 engines is the wide variety of modifications on offer. No matter whether you’re looking for some off-the-shelf power upgrades, or a full race engine build.

They’re certainly capable of producing incredible power figures with extremely high levels of reliability when built and maintained correctly. It’s a Honda after all!

They can also make for perfect drift car engines, make sure you turn up the volume and prepare for an eargasm as we head back to 2014 to appreciate this S2000 K24 Formula Drift build:

We always highly recommend doing your research before you opt for the ideal K24 solution, but our information should certainly give you an excellent base for your future build.

Honda K24 Engine Swaps

Okay, so, this is where things get fun. We’ve all seen the Civic EG K24 swaps, and yeah, it’s convenient and all, but let’s face it, everyone and their dog has done that by now.

We’ve seen some pretty wild K24 swaps over the years, from Honda NSXs to bespoke Noble M400s. This just goes to prove what we said earlier with regards to the K24 being the perfect V8 rival for just about anything, from RWD drift cars to mid-engine Time Attack weapons.

A simple Google search will reveal just how many simple K20/K24 swaps there are out there on the market, and there are several off-the-shelf packages for the Mazda Miata and Nissan 240SX owners out there.

For those of you that are considering it for your 240SX or Miata, the most common transmission for the swap would be the BMW ZF manual gearbox, which is thankfully both easily sourced and reasonably priced.

Other common K24 conversions are the likes of the Civic, but also the Toyota MR2, various Lotus’s, and also the Honda S2000.

Let’s start our crazy swap list with this ridiculous Subaru BRZ! BRZ + K24 + Gigantic turbo = This 700 hp insanity:

Since we mentioned mid-engined cars, how about another turbo-powered K24, this time in an MR2?

If MR2’s aren’t your thing, then you can surely appreciate a Supercharged 700hp, 800kg Lotus Exige turbo K24 destroying the competition at a Hillclimb event?

Or, what about the perfect sleeper? This Indonesian dude has the perfect recipe with his Honda Brio!

Finally, it doesn’t get much more awesome than this. This wheelie-popping K24-powered Toyota Tacoma destroys the competition at a drag event to collect $5,000.

Honda K24 Forced Induction

If you are planning to feed your K24 with some sweet, performance-inducing forced induction, there are plenty of choices on the market.

There’s certainly no shortage of turbocharged K24’s out there, but there’s also a decent amount of supercharged ones, too.

Thankfully, the K24 is one of the most convenient engines when it comes to forced induction, and can end up being one of the cheapest and most convenient engines to modify.

With the stock internals being capable of handling up to 4-500hp, you can see why so many people opt for the K24 when it comes to engine swaps.

With that said, forced induction does, of course, put a lot of strain on any engine, especially older ones that have perhaps not been fantastically well-cared-for.

For that reason, we’d always do a thorough tear-down to ensure you have a solid base before going through the effort of forced induction.

We’d also consider going with uprated internals to save the inevitable tears once you’ve started bouncing off the limiter later on.

Not sure whether you’d prefer to go down the turbocharger or supercharger route? We’ve answered all of the questions that are rattling around in your brain in our Turbocharger Vs Supercharger - What’s Best? article.

Honda K24 Reliability & Common Issues

The K-series is a true testament to Honda’s reliability, and a well-maintained stock engine is likely to last you hundreds of thousands of miles with minimal maintenance.

But, here at Drifted, the chances of you opting for the stock route are slim, and for a lot of you, the well-maintained aspect could well be lacking a little, too. (We’re not pointing any fingers!)

Although the engine is extremely robust and durable, it does have some minor niggles, as just about every engine we’ve ever taken a look at would.

One of the main components to fail can be the timing chain sensor, but there are solutions out there to minimize the risk. In addition, the tensioners on the timing chain are known to go bad too. If this happens, you are looking at a repair bill in the neighborhood of $700 to $1200. A small price for JDM supremacy I would say! *wink*

There are occasionally issues with leaking oil seals and excessive wear on the exhaust camshaft.

Rough engine noises can often be attributed to the incorrect use of engine oil or lack of maintenance. Lack of upkeep has also been the leading cause of rattling timing chains.

Over time, this can deteriorate the VTC gear, which would likely need replacing, especially if it’s coming from the right side of the engine.

These are mostly minor niggles, and almost always come down to improper maintenance.

So, keep on top of your servicing and don’t go crazy with modifying *cough* then the lifespan is expected to be at least 2-300,000 miles.

Conclusion

Honda’s K-series engines are certainly one of the very best value-for-money choices out there right now.

We’ve compared them to V8’s several times in this guide, but in some ways, we find them even more tempting.

V8’s have often had a tough life, they’re suffering from ever-increasing inflation due to their popularity in the motorsport world, and many of them are certainly showing signs of age. Oh, and did we mention the fuel costs?

We’re not saying that every K24 out there has had an easy life, but we’d bet that Grandma hasn’t been doing quite so many burnouts in her Accord.

If you’re looking for the best K24 engine right out of the box, then you’ll want to take a look at the K24A2.

However, given the convenience of upgrades, modifications, and matching parts between the various K-series engines, we certainly wouldn’t stress too much about making sure we got our hands the A2.

Given how kindly they also take to forced induction, they certainly have to be a consideration for those of you that are going down that route.

With the BMW gearbox conversion, it’s also an extremely convenient swap when it comes to RWD cars, and even more so for mid-engine cars. This 1000-horsepower K-swapped NSX is a perfect example of this.

Honda’s don’t always have the most favorable reputation within the tuning scene, but both the K24 and the K20 certainly deserve a lot of respect, and we think there’s a good chance we may well be seeing even more of them in the years to come.

If that’s the case - we’re not complaining!

We hope that we’ve covered everything you could want to know about the fantastic Honda K24 engine in this guide.

If you’re not entirely sold on the Honda K24 just yet, then make sure you also head over to our Honda K20 guide to help you decide. You should also check out our B16 and D16 guides.

If you’re also interested in the other engines that Honda has to offer, make sure you check out our comprehensive Honda B-Series guide.

Thank you for reading our Honda K24 guide.

If you enjoyed this article, then please share it with the buttons at the side and bottom of your screen. If you’ve found this information useful, then please take a moment to share it with other Honda, or engine swap enthusiasts. We really appreciate your support.

Photography credits

We thank the following entities for the use of their photography in this article:

• kevos2k on S2KI
• Reece Mikkelson on Flickr
• Jason Hoang on Flickr
• Zac Shee on Flickr
• Tennen-Gas on Wikimedia Commons
• Hatsukari715 on Wikipedia
• Engine Swap Depot

The post Ultimate Honda K24 Guide – Everything You Need To Know first appeared on Drifted.com.

• Introduction
• Engine Information & Specs
• Which Cars/Trucks Have The 4.2 Vortec Engine?
• Reliability & Common Issues
• Tuning Potential
• Engine Swaps
• Conclusion

Introduction

Things can become a little confusing when researching this engine, as it’s known under several different guises.

Whether you’ve heard it referred to as GM’s 4.2-liter engine, the LL8, or the Vortec 4200, this guide will cover everything you need to know.

The 4.2 Vortec was the first Atlas engine to roll out of General Motors’ production line, based on the GMT360 platform.

Initially released In 2002, production continued in the popular Chevrolet TrailBlazer and less-likely candidates such as the Saab 9-7X and the Isuzu Ascender until the final engines left the factory in 2009.

Revolutionary for its time, the all-aluminium dual-overhead-cam engine featured a range of advanced technologies such as VVT (Variable Valve Timing,) electronic throttle control, and coil-on-plug ignition.

Sure, these might not sound too impressive in the present day, but it was a fantastic feat almost 20 years ago, enabling GM to provide similar power figures to its V8 rivals in a six-cylinder package.

As the engine began to achieve soaring popularity, it also landed a spot on Ward’s 10 Best Engines list for three consecutive years from 2002 to 2005.

With the Vortec 4200 mostly overlooked and forgotten about in the present day, it’s time to give the engine that set the basis for future Atlas engines to follow the recognition it deserves.

FAQ

4.2 Vortec Engine Information & Specs

With the 4.2 Vortec being the first in the Atlas engine family, this later included straight-five and inline-four engines found in vehicles such as the Chevy Colorado and the Hummer H3.

Vortec 4200 History

When the Vortec 4200 entered the market in 2002, it featured 270 hp (201 kW) at 6,000 rpm, with 275lb/ft torque (373 nM) at 3,600 rpm.

One of the most impressive aspects of the 4200 is that the engine reached almost 90% of torque at 1,800 rpm.

For the 2003 model year, GM upgraded the power to 275 hp (205 kW) despite the torque output remaining the same.

In 2006, further increases saw the power reach its peak at 291 hp (217 kW) at 6,000 rpm with a minimal torque upgrade totaling 277 lb/ft (375 nM) at 4,800 rpm.

A complete internal overhaul and MAF inclusion were the main elements that enabled the newfound power gains.

The Vortec 4200 laughed off its rivals, and when going head-to-head against its almost identical-sized inline-six opponent offered by Jeep, it had a 100 hp advantage!

Having reached its peak, GM were particularly proud of the Vortec 4200, and quite rightly so, with the Chief Engineer, Ron Kociba, stating “We designed the Vortec 4200 to be a benchmark engine in power, performance, and refinement”.

Although the Vortec 4200 continued to scoop up awards over the years, many owners were left disappointed by the fuel economy, which was often worse than the likes of the higher-powered V8’s in the GMT360 range.

As fuel economy became an increasing concern with ever-increasing emissions demands, GM had no choice but to head back to the drawing board as they prepared to launch the next engine in their Atlas range.

Soon after, GM would later close their Moraine, Ohio plant and ceasing production of the 4.2 Vortec alongside the entire GMT360 platform in 2009.

As GM continued to work on the Atlas engine family, they continued with the tried and tested methods from the Vortec 4200, keeping the same aluminium design, 10.0:1 compression ratio, camshafts, rods, and numerous other components. The Vortec 4200 certainly set the trend in the Atlas range!

Vortec 4200 (4.2 Vortec) Engine Specs

The Vortec 4200 has four valves per cylinder, dual-overhead (DOHC) cams, and a displacement of 4.2L (253.9 cu/in – 4,160 cc) with a bore of 93 mm (3.66 in) x 102mm (4.02 in.)

With a 10.0:1 compression ratio, this helped outpower rival engines, reaching almost 90% of its torque capabilities at around 1,800 rpm, right the way through to 5,600 rpm.

For the first time in the history of GM’s inline engines, it also featured variable valve timing on the exhaust cam. With this, the exhaust camshaft timing has a range of 25 degrees, depending on the engine’s operating conditions.

Variable valve timing is controlled by an onboard computer that assesses data such as speed, load, and throttle position. A control valve provides the necessary oil quantities to the piston chamber located at the camshaft’s front.

With this new technology, the exhaust camshaft can provide a much-improved torque curve alongside superior idling and improved emissions.

Utilizing an Electronic Throttle Cable (ETC), which was rare at the time, this (unsurprisingly) sends throttle information via sensors to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM.)

With other advanced features for its day, such as coil-on-plug ignition, the 4.2 Vortec was a real game-changer for its time, providing an impressive amount of smooth power from a small package.

GM opted for a “lost foam” process when it came to the engine’s all-aluminum design.

As well as being incredibly lightweight, this process is far more consistent and allowed for accessories to be mounted to the engine.

Power steering pump bracket aside, all additional accessories are bolted directly onto the engine, which may need to be a consideration for those of you planning to use the Vortec 4200 for an engine swap, which we’ll explore later in this guide.

If you’re keen to see the differences between the different model years, make sure you check out this video:

Which Cars/Trucks Have The 4.2 Vortec Engine?

Although the Vortec 4200 is most commonly found in the Chevy TrailBlazer, you’ll also find them in the following cars.

It’s worth remembering that the later the model year, the bigger the power, with the engine reaching its peak from 2006 onwards.

• 2002-2009 Chevrolet TrailBlazer and TrailBlazer EXT
• 2002-2009 GMC Envoy, Envoy XL, Envoy XUV
• 2002-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada
• 2003-2008 Isuzu Ascender
• 2004-2007 Buick Rainier
• 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X 4.2i

4.2 Vortec Reliability & Common Issues

Given that the Vortec 4200 has now been around for almost twenty years, it’ll come as no surprise that the engine’s flaws are now completely exposed.

Valve Seats

Despite having an excellent reputation overall when it comes to reliability, some stories of it are perfect until it fails catastrophically. Thankfully, most of the engines would have now passed the period where this was most likely to happen.

The issue was caused by a rare occurrence where the intake valve seats were “soft”, which would cause low compression.

However, the consensus is that if the engine has managed to reach the 75k mile mark trouble-free, then the chances are that it wasn’t one of those affected.

Although this was a significant problem if it occurred, it thankfully wasn’t a common issue considering the scale of the Vortec 4200 engines that reached the market.

With the earlier engines approaching their twentieth birthdays, the sheer quantity of those still running problem-free is a testament to how reliable they can be when correctly maintained.

Ignition Coil Failure

Some earlier models suffered from ignition coil failure, but this was later rectified.

VVT (Variable Valve Timing) Solenoid

The VVT solenoid provides oil to the cam phaser, and if this becomes clogged or restricted, it can cause damage to the phaser.

If an issue arises with the VVT, which isn’t rectified, then the phaser will likely fail.

Maintaining essential maintenance such as the correct oil change intervals with the recommended oil is likely to ensure that this issue never arises.

Maintenance

The Vortec 4200 is hugely convenient for carrying out straightforward servicing tasks and essential maintenance as everything is easily accessible.

When it comes to larger jobs, which require head removal, this can be more challenging than usual due to its chain-driven DOHC layout.

Economy

When it comes to the economy, figures vary, but we expect to achieve around 15-18 mpg with city driving and around 21-26mpg when cruising on the highway.

However, this will, of course, vary between years and the life the engine has had over the years.

Engine Rebuild/Overhaul Kits

Thankfully, there are easily accessible rebuild kits still out there on the market for those that would like to give their 4.2L a refresh.

• Engine Rebuild Overhaul Kit FITS: 2002-2005 Chevrolet GM GMC 4.2L 4200 L6 Vortec LL8
• Engine Rebuild Overhaul Kit FITS: 2006-2007 Chevrolet GM GMC 4.2L 4200 L6 Vortec LL8
• Engine Rebuild Overhaul Kit FITS: 2008-2009 Chevrolet GM GMC 4.2L 4200 L6 Vortec LL8

Manufacturer description: “This rebuild kit has all the parts you need to freshen up that worn engine. These parts are manufactured directly from only high-quality companies with ISO, QS & TS quality systems in place. These are not cheap Chinese parts. This is a quality kit that will last”.

Key Features:

• Full Gasket Set w/ MLS Head Gaskets
• Hyper-Eutectic Dome-Top Pistons w/ Coated Skirts
• Premium Piston Rings
• Main/Rod Bearings
• Full Timing Set (w/o Sprockets)
• Oil Pump Repair Kit
• Valve Stem Seals

4.2 Vortec Tuning Potential

Although many GM enthusiasts are unaware, Chevy themselves once bolted twin-turbochargers to the Vortec 4200.

With twin Aerodyne turbos set at 8.5lbs of boost, alongside uprated internals and an air-to-water intercooler, the skunkworks TrailBlazer project commenced in 2002.

With a reduced compression ratio of 8.5:1, uprated fuel injectors, a high-flow oil pump, an uprated exhaust system, and added oil jets, it certainly wasn’t a minor project carried out on a budget!

Despite the connecting rods being 2mm shorter with thicker piston pins, many internal components such as the block, head gasket, and cams remained the stock factory parts.

Impressively, this setup was capable of 400 hp at 5,200 rpm and 400 lb/ft torque at 2,500 rpm, with a 0-60 time of 5.35 seconds and a quarter-mile time of 13.91 at 97mph.

Not bad for a TrailBlazer, huh?!

Disappointingly, GM later opted to cancel the project, opting for the naturally-aspirated LS2 V8 engine with 395 hp and 400 lb/ft torque instead, which featured in the TrailBlazer SS.

Not that we can really blame them!

Vortec 4200 Upgrades

Since we don’t all have GM’s budget, it’ll be a little more rational to consider some cheaper alternatives for upgrading the 4.2 Vortec.

When it comes to off-the-shelf upgrades, the first components to consider are, as always, getting the engine breathing to the best of its ability.

Replacing the filter for a green filter and opening up the stock box are common DIY mods, and a cat-back exhaust will always help overcome airflow restrictions, free up some ponies, and provide an improved sound in the process.

K&N also offers a selection of Vortec 4.2 intakes and filters.

From there, you can consider opting for upgrading the mass air sensor and installing a throttle body spacer.

A tune such as pcmforless or supersparkz are the most common tried-and-tested choices, with many delighted owners enjoying the performance gains along with a superior curve, improved idle, and increased mpg.

With the more straightforward options out of the way, some may wish to consider having the head bored and ported or opting for more aggressive cams.

However, if you’re chasing down significant power figures, then forced induction is going to be the only way to go, but the chances are you’ll have to go completely custom to do so.

Some owners have opted for budget turbo kits, but as you can see, fitment is often no simple feat due to the lack of space around the engine. With that said, it sounds pretty damn sweet!

This Fairmont is one of our favorite big-power builds, using a Precision 5976E turbo to gain over 440 hp on the dyno.

It also rips on the drag strip, with impressive 9-second runs:

These guys continue to push the boundaries of the 4200 in the present day, and we can’t wait to see the outcome of their latest upgrades:

With enough determination, the 4.2L Vortec is undoubtedly capable of pushing out some respectable numbers, but you’ll certainly have your work cut out getting there.

Since these engines can be easily sourced for just a few hundred bucks, it provides an excellent platform for a budget turbo build, as long as you’re willing to carry out the custom work required.

Vortec 4200 in Motorsport

GM wasn’t afraid to test the Vortec 4200’s capabilities, and in collaboration with specialist engine builders Falconer, they designed a 5.0L equivalent of the 4200 for motorsport use.

Although they managed to squeeze out 600 hp at 7,500 rpm and 450 lb/ft torque at 6,000 rpm, the engine became almost unrecognizable from the original 4.2L and certainly wasn’t a simple DIY project for those that are tempted!

With a tube frame chassis and a carbon-fiber body, the little-known mid-engined 81 Vortec Trailblazer would head to the likes of the Baja 500 and 1000 off-road events in 2000 with Larry Ragland behind the wheel.

That’s not all either. With a 625 hp GMC Envoy build, Larry Ragland also competed at the Pikes Peak Hill Climb in 2000, claiming the overall win.

Built upon a modified Trans Am platform, this unlikely 4WD monster powered its way to success, proving the true capabilities of the inline-six.

The final motorsport effort for the 4200 came from Herzog Motorsports, who headed to the ‘Best In The Desert Nevada’ in 2000.

Based on the 5.0-liter variant, the four-driver team won the TrickTrick class by over thirty minutes, also claiming second place overall in the competition.

4.2 Vortec Engine Swaps

Since we’ve discovered that the Vortec 4200 can be picked up with a bargain price tag, and there’s certainly no shortage out there, it’s the perfect candidate for a budget swap, surely?

Things aren’t quite as simple as that, unfortunately!

As much as we’d love to show you videos of 4.2 Vortec’s smoking sideways in this section, the engine isn’t the most popular choice when it comes to swaps.

Given the engine’s size and the fact that the accessories are bolted to the block, it’s not renowned for its ability to fit into tight spaces.

With the 4.2 Atlas engine made mostly with truck-sized engine bay space in mind, this is where the LS often has the upper hand, thanks to its ability to fit into smaller bays.

Here’s an attempt at fitting a Vortec 4200 into a Nissan 240Z.

Thanks to Project Hiatus for the following engine measurements and dimensions, which explains why a 4200 swap may be a struggle when it comes to size:

Vortec 4200

• Length = 32” (from bell housing to front of engine, not including harmonic balancer)
• Width = ~16”
• Height = ~35” (from bottom of pan to top of intake plenum with PCM)

LS1 (Including accessories, you might take ~3” off the width with a relocated alternator)

• Length = 27.5″
• Width = 30″
• Height = 27.5″

Despite being significantly larger than your average powerplant, the Vortec 4200 could well be an ideal swap candidate for vehicles with generous bay space – here are some of our top picks!

Checker marathon Vortec 4200 swap:

‘That’ 9-second Fairmont Ventura with a stock bottom-end:

An awesome hot-rodding Studebaker from the 4200 enthusiasts that also built the Fairmont seen above:

An epic boosted ’51 GMC truck pushing out 510 RWHP.

Conclusion

We can’t lie, we’ve got a real soft spot for the 4.2 Vortec inline-six, and we feel that it’s a hugely underrated engine.

When it hit the market, the firstborn Atlas was a gamechanger for its time, introducing new technologies still used today.

Despite impressing the masses during its short lifespan, the unusual size and dimensions were the main issues that forced GM back to the drawing board, and why we’re yet to see any LL8 drift builds!

Although it’s almost perfect for its intended purpose, the downside is that it takes up far more space than some of the alternatives out there when it comes to a practical and convenient swap.

If you’re looking to buy an SUV with a Vortec 4200, we’re sure you won’t be disappointed.

With many owners now running beyond 250,000 miles without significant issues, it’s a true testament to their reliability when correctly maintained.

The LL8 has some decent tuning potential, and a simple tune could make it a much-improved drive, alongside the abilities to handle a turbo-upgrade on stock internals – assuming you’re willing to opt for a custom setup.

Let’s not forget that the Atlas range was designed as a low-revving, high-torque truck engine, and with almost full-torque being reached at just 1,800 rpm, it achieves its task perfectly.

Although most enthusiasts won’t like to hear it, there’s no real question that something along the lines of an LS-swap is going to provide a far better experience if you’re hunting down high-power tuning potential.

The initial outlay for an LS engine would be significantly higher than an LL8. Still, over time, we think it’ll be a more straightforward, cheaper, more reliable swap with far more tuning potential.

Not only that, but the LS will conveniently fit in just about any vehicle imaginable!

We hope that we’ve helped you decide whether GM’s 4.2 Vortec will be the ideal solution for your needs, but if you’re still unsure, make sure you check out some of our other engine guides.

We’ve taken an in-depth look at the likes of the 6.0L Powerstroke, the various LT1 engines, Toyota’s 2UZFE and 2GR-FE, and the monstrous 8.1L Vortec 8100!

Thank you for reading our 4.2 Vortec guide.

If you enjoyed this article, please share it with the buttons at the bottom of your screen. If you’ve found this information useful, then please take a moment to share it with other GM, inline-six, drag racing, and Atlas enthusiasts. We appreciate your support.

Photography credits

We thank the following entities for the use of their photography in this article:

• TW0R on Flickr
• George Thomas on Flickr
• TW0R on Flickr
• Jelger on Flickr

The post Ultimate 4.2 Vortec Guide first appeared on Drifted.com.

History and family of the 4G6

It all started in 1969 when Mitsubishi started a series of 4-cylinder gasoline and Diesel engines. The series had four different families; The Sirius series from which the 4G63T was later born, the Saturn series, the Astron series, and the Orion Series.

The 4G6 or the Mitsubishi Sirius was the series of the most preferred gasoline engines, mainly on the streets and especially in the World Rally Championship in the so-called “Turbo era” in the eighties.

The production of this series started in 1976 and continued till 2013 before being phased out in the US and replaced by its successor, the powerful and brand-new 4B11T. The 4G63 also underwent many improvements; for example, the later versions’ air intake and fuel injector systems were significantly improved.

This engine had three generations which powered nine generations of the legendary Mitsubishi Lancer. The 4G63 was eventually made much more efficient, and the cutting-edge technology of the Japanese needs no explanation.

This engine is made of pure cast iron, making it heavier. Still, it gives extreme structural integrity, and the aluminum heads allow the engine to handle enormous amounts of power easily.

Sirius Series

Sirius engines use regular Mitsubishi engine codes, with the first letter (4) indicating the number of cylinders. The second (G) denotes the fuel, which is gasoline.

The third character relates to the engine family, and the fourth to the engine itself; each engine is assigned a unique number that has nothing to do with engine size. The last character (t) specifies whether or not the engine is turbocharged.

The 4G61

This was the first in the long line of power plants that powered the World rally Championship for a long time. This engine displaces 1,595cc (1.6L) with a bore of 82.3mm x 75mm.

This engine was a DOHC 16-valve and was fuelled by either an ECFI (electronic controlled fuel injection) or an MPFI (Multi-point fuel injection). Other Sirius motors had balance shafts, while the 4G1 did not have a balance shaft. This engine produced 105 HP at 6,100 rm.

The 4G62

The 4G2 was a larger engine that displaced 1,795 ccs (1.8L). It has a bore and stroke of 80.6 mm × 88 mm. The 4G62 was a SOHC 8-valve engine designed for longitudinal rear-wheel drive and all-wheel drive use.

This engine was available in either carburetor form, MPFI or ECI. Another version of this engine was the turbo charge 4G62T.

The 4G63/G63B

The 4G63 was the most preferred in this series due to its robust engine structure and also due to its ability to be heavily modified for vast amounts of pure power.

This engine also had its more famous 4G63T, the turbocharged version. This engine displaces 1,997cc (2.0L). The bore stroke is 85 mm × 88 mm, this engine was produced in both SOHC and DOHC, and both were available in either naturally aspirated or turbocharged versions.

The Mitsubishi 4G63T was first introduced in the 1980s. The engine’s 1G and 2G models were used in various vehicles, including the Mitsubishi Galant VR-4, the Eagle Talon TSi, and the Plymouth Laser RS Turbo.

Diamond Star Motors (DSM), a joint venture between Chrysler and Mitsubishi, played a significant role in developing the 4G63T engine, as it was used in many cars produced by DSM.

The 4G63T engine was unique because it was one of the first mass-produced turbocharged four-cylinder engines, allowing it to produce higher power levels than many of its contemporaries. Over the years, the engine was continually refined and improved.

From 1G to 2G, changes include:

• Oil sprayers were added to the connecting rods to help cool the piston crowns and reduce friction
• Lighter pistons and rods were used to reduce engine weight and improve the revving capability
• Seven-bolt attachment on the cylinder head was used to improve head gasket sealing and boost pressure
• Power increased from 200 horsepower in the 1G model to around 300 hp in the 2G model.
• Additional components, such as a larger turbocharger, a more efficient intercooler, and a stronger crankshaft, were added.

The 4G63t’s tough bottom end has features that have become increasingly rare because of carefully optimized production engines, increasing emissions regulations, and drastic weight-saving programs. Of course, like any motor, the 4G63t has its weaknesses.

Some motors have thrust bearing problems with no clear solution, and the balance shafts are not optimal for performance use. In addition, the engine’s smallish 2-liter displacement is an obstacle to immense streetable power. The stock pistons and rods are strong but only production parts.

The 4G64

The 4G64 was the largest variant in the Sirius gasoline series, with a displacement of 2,351 ccs (2.4L). It was available in 8-valve SOHC but was later available in 16-valve SOHC. It used Multi-Point Fuel Injection (MPFI) and had a bore and stroke of 86.5 mm × 100 mm.

4G63T/4G63 Specs

The 4G63 is also popularly called the “2JZ” of the 4-cylinder world, although the 2JZ came in the 90s while the 4G63 came in the early 70s.

The robust quality of cast iron and heavy-duty pistons generated enormous torque, and this engine was the most preferred in the world rally championship pretty much explains why it can easily handle a whopping 1000 hp.

It also was integrated with advanced MIVEC technology, which significantly increased the airflow and exhaust of the 4G63T. The 4G63 also used a 13KG crankshaft, a timing belt, and a balance shaft, which helped it control high engine vibrations.

This engine was the most iconic on the Mitsubishi Lancer Evo. This engine also has a tuning potential of 1000 hp, which we’ll discuss later.

Cons of 4G63/4G63T

There is no doubt that this engine is an excellent choice for 4-cylinder petrolheads even today, but there are some common problems with the 4G63, which, if not taken seriously, can wreck your engine.

4G63T balance shaft bearing and timing belt failure

This is one of the most common 4G63 users face. Due to the old design and age, this engine faces a critical problem. The timing belt failure. It uses belt-driven dual balancing shafts with weights that spin at twice the speed of the powerplant to counteract the vibrations.

Now constant wear and tear due to piston strokes and a lot of power being produced alongside constant friction often cause the bearings to fail, which can cause the timing belt to snap.

If that happens, then you will have to buy a brand-new engine because it will wreck the engine from the inside. To avoid it, experts suggest using high-quality engine oil and NEVER skipping routine oil changes. This helps the bearings operate efficiently.

Also, using a Kevlar belt instead of the stock belt is a good option. Most experts suggest entirely deleting the balance shaft and installing an aftermarket kit. This will increase engine vibrations, but it’s better to tolerate some vibrations instead of complete engine failure on a heavily built engine.

The lifter failure

This is a common problem and can be easily identified with a constantly ticking annoying sound from the engine. This often happens because of poor oil pressure below the throttle body.

This causes the intake manifold to reduce efficiency as the lifters do not open and stick, so the airflow is affected, affecting engine power. A common fix is to use 3G lifters and lubricate them well.

The Crankwalk problem

The crank walk problem is common in the 7-bolt version of the 4G63T, mainly because it had weaker journals. “Journals” are the cylindrical part of the crankshaft, which is also the central axis of rotation.

Because of the weaker journals, wear is quite predominant at high engine RPM. When excessive wear occurs, i.e., more than standard tolerances, the crank will start to move and vibrate when it’s rotating.

You can expect what happens next - when the crank moves, all engine internals move, and within a few seconds, you have a blown engine that is unrepairable.

Maintenance

If you wish to customize your Mitsubishi turbo, take the time to catch up on missed maintenance. Regular maintenance includes oil and coolant changes; see the paragraph above for what happens if one is neglected.

Mitsubishi advises changing the timing belt every 60,000 miles, and this is not an optional repair. An interference engine with a damaged timing belt will have bent valves. The balance shaft belt is equally crucial; a broken belt is the root cause of most timing belt failures.

Because of the engine’s layout, several minor parts, such as the crank and cam seals and timing belt tensioner, need to be replaced simultaneously with the timing belt.

Every 60,000 miles, use only genuine Mitsubishi timing belts. Because of their higher heat resistance and quality control, Robert Garcia suggests only utilizing OEM timing belts. Although aftermarket belts are OK, the price difference is modest enough that purchasing an OEM component is inexpensive insurance.

Replace the water pump every second timing belt replacement (every 120,000 miles), as it is located below the timing belt and often wears out after 100,000 miles. If the timing belt fails, you’ll have to pull it again, so replace it as a precaution.

At 120,000 miles, every second belt replacement should involve the repair of the idler bearings, tensioner, water pump, and the small hoses that deliver cooling water to the turbo. It’s not technically maintenance, but after changing the timing belt, you should also check the ignition timing. Check and reset the idling and other EFI settings as well.

Even if no signs of wear are present, the timing belt idler bearings should be replaced every 120,000 miles. Replace the water pump every second timing belt replacement (every 120,000 miles), as it is located below the timing belt and often wears out after 100,000 miles. If the timing belt fails, you’ll have to pull it again, so replace it as a precaution.

At 120,000 miles, every second belt replacement should involve the repair of the idler bearings, tensioner, water pump, and the small hoses that deliver cooling water to the turbo.

It’s not technically maintenance, but after changing the timing belt, you should also check the ignition timing. Check and reset the idling and other EFI settings as well. Even if there is no evidence of wear or roughness, the timing belt idler bearings should be changed every 120,000 miles.

Always utilize OEM Mitsubishi components for the same reason as the timing belt. You may find them for a few dollars more than aftermarket if you shop well. The hydraulic tensioner on the 4G63t engines is dependable.

It, too, should be changed after 120,000 miles. A faulty tensioner will cause the belt to get slack and skip, causing valves, valve guides, cam followers, and even camshafts to be destroyed.

The Best Part: Upgrades

The first thing most enthusiasts do when they get home with their new car is to drop the exhaust system and install an aftermarket one. This isn’t a bad idea once the engine is tuned up and running on high-octane fuel. The right DSM exhaust will pick up more than a few horsepower, and it can improve the sound of your engine.

The 1g DSM has a decently sized TD05-14b turbo and will produce good power without overheating the air. The 2g, on the other hand, has a tiny little Garrett T25 turbo that isn’t much use above stock boost levels. An additional 2-3 psi is all that can be expected from the T25 turbo, also known as the “T-too small” for its diminutive size.

The TDOSh-16G turbos installed on the various Evos, on the other hand, can easily squeeze out another 5 or even 10 psi without breaking a sweat. All 4G63t variants can handle 2-3 psi more boost from the stock turbo without a problem.

There is also enough headroom in all three engine management systems to properly fuel a few more PSI of boost and the resulting airflow. It should be evident that you need to have an accurate boost gauge before you start playing with boost tuning. Start small and test your changes slowly.

Before cranking up the boost, ensure you’re getting the expected stock boost out of your car. Test it in high gear, like fourth or fifth, to give the turbo enough time to build full boost before the engine revs increase too far.

Manual transmission 1g owners should see between 8 and 12 psi on the stock turbo and intake system, while 2g owners should see 10 to 15 psi. The Evo is a different beast; stock boost has a peak of around 19 psi that drops to around 16 psi by redline.

The ECU does not entirely control the 1g and 2g boost control systems. The ECU can only reduce the boost, not increase it. Removing the restrictor increases the target boost, as does add an aftermarket boost controller.

The second thing to remember is that the 1g and 2g DSMs have an upper limit to boost in the form of the factory “fuel cut,” which kicks in if the stock ECU senses more than a pre-set amount of airflow into the engine. The fuel cut operates at around 18 psi depending on model, year, turbo, and air temperature. The only way to remove the fuel cut is with engine management modifications (see

If you’ve got a chippable DSM ECU, a simple reprogrammed chip, and some electronics experience, it’s not hard to add a couple of horsepower to your engine. An off-the-shelf tuned ECU chip will provide some benefit but not as much as a custom-tuned program.

On a pure “dollars per horsepower” scale, a turbo-timer ranks pretty close to the bottom. You won’t make any more power, but it’s easy to install. Plug-and-play harnesses are available for DSMs and Evos, so it’s not a bad installation for practicing your electronics skills. A turbo timer keeps the oil and water flowing to the turbo as the turbine blades spin down.

An engine’s accessories, including the A/C com-pressor, water pump, alternator, and steering pump, absorb engine power as the accessory belt system drives them. Reducing the diameter of the crankshaft’s drive pulley reduces the speed at which these accessories are driven, reducing the power demands they make on the engine.

So-called underdrive pulleys do just that. The smaller, usually aluminum pulley also helps reduce the engine’s rotating mass. Other pulleys on the market are lightweight aluminum, like underdrive pulleys, but they are designed to drive the accessories at stock speeds.

These pulleys may have some cumulative effect on the engine’s rotating mass, the same as an underdrive pulley.

Conclusion

So, is this the best gasoline 4-cylinder? The answer to this question is not simple. It is true that completely stock, this powerplant is super reliable because of its build quality of cast iron and easily crosses the 250,000-mile mark with mild maintenance.

However, this engine is more popular as a tuner engine, and there is less appetite for a stock 4G63. Even today, this engine is still in production by Chinese producers. This engine was ahead of the comparatively newer 2JZ-GTE.

There is something special in the 4G63, its rich history, its high tuning capacity to the extreme power and how it was the legacy of the world rally championship, and how beautifully this power plant was built with a cast iron engine block, forged steel crankshaft, and aluminum piston heads. The 4G63 is truly the undefeated 2JZ of the 4-cylinder world.

The post 4G63T – The Best 4-Cylinder Ever? first appeared on Drifted.com.

Introduction

Toyota has long been known as one of the best automotive manufacturers in the JDM and global markets.

One of the primary reasons for their tremendous success is the engines they produce, combining impressive power with incredible reliability.

The ‘golden era’ of Toyota engines was probably during the ’90s when some of their engines were deemed ‘legendary’ by consumers and critics alike. An example would be the 3.0L (2997 cc) twin-turbo 2JZ-GTE from the Supra MKIV.

Similarly, around this time, Toyota built the 3SGTE, which continued to be produced for 21 years (1986-2007).

The engine was improved drastically during this time, and there exist five generations of the 3SGTE, all of which are the topic of today’s article.

We will overview the significant changes in each generation of the engine, the applications of the engine, and its tuning potential, reliability, and common faults.

3SGTE Applications

• 1986-1989 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST165 (first-gen engine)
• 1990-1993 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST185 (second-gen engine)
• 1990-1993 Toyota MR2 (second-gen engine)
• 1994-1999 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205 (third-gen engine)
• 1994-1999 Toyota MR2 (third-gen engine)
• 1997-2001 Toyota Caldina ST215 (fourth-gen engine)
• 2002-2007 Toyota Caldina ST246 (fifth-gen engine)

3SGTE Engine Specs

The 3SGTE is a turbocharged 2.0L (1998 cc), in-line four-cylinder gasoline engine which produces 182 horsepower at 6000 rpm and 250 Nm of torque at 4000 rpm in its first generation.

By the fifth generation, the GTE produced 256 horsepower at 6200 rpm and 324 Nm of torque at 4400 rpm.

The 3S-GTE is based on the 3S-GE engine. This engine has been used in many projects because of its tuning potential, tough build, and decent specs.

Usually, we see a manual transmission coupled with the 3S-GTE, although the Caldina GT-Four came with a Tiptronic transmission.

Although it is based on the naturally aspirated 3S-GE, the 3S-GTE has added under-piston oil squirters and a lower compression ratio to accommodate the addition of the turbocharger.

This is one of the few engines on which Toyota had worked in conjunction with Yamaha. Yamaha had designed the 16-valve dual overhead cam (DOHC) cylinder head used in this engine.

The cylinder head is made using aluminum alloy, with a firing order of 1-3-4-2 using a distributor-based system.

A single-timing belt drives the exhaust, intake camshaft, water, and oil pumps.

A shim-over bucket system is employed to adjust the valve clearance in the first and second generations of the engine. A shim under bucket system is fitted in later generations of the engine.

The engine pistons are designed to endure high-temperature levels, so the aluminum alloy is used again. The pistons have an indentation incorporated to prevent them from hitting the valves in the case of breakage of the timing belt.

Engine Specs

The naturally aspirated and the turbo version of the 3S was on the market for a long time, and during that time, they evolved significantly.

The NA and the turbo 3SGTE can be split into five generations, and the difference between the power output from the first generation to the last shows you the evolution’s extent.

The 3S-GE initially started with a pretty modest 135 horsepower and ended with a respectable 210 horsepower.

However, the 3S-GTE, on the other hand, started with 185 horsepower and ended with 260.

3S engines have the same bore and stroke throughout generations and feature a square engine design with both bore and stroke at 86 millimeters. This tells us that the 3s aimed for an optimal balance between valve size, performance, power, and torque.

The naturally aspirated 3S-GE employed many different variable valve timing technologies. It started with the primitive TVIS, which is the same one that you can find on the early versions of the 4A-GE engine.

Like for the 4A-GE, Toyota got rid of TVIS pretty fast for the 3S, in favor of the ACIS, which stands for acoustic control induction system. (ACIS had proved to be significantly more efficient than TVIS)

The 4^th generation of the 3S-GE came with proper modern variable valve timing technology, which in the case of Toyota is known as VVTi. Generation 5 of the 3S has dual VVTi.

However, unlike on the 2ZZ-GE engine, this doesn’t have a variable lift and simply affects valve timing. Nevertheless, it’s a handy feature for increasing the performance of your engine.

The fourth and fifth generations of the 3S-GE are known as BEAMS engines.

BEAMS stands for Breakthrough Engine with Advanced Mechanism System and should tell you everything that was going on in these engines.

Unfortunately, the BEAMS was only available in the Japanese markets.

Regarding the specs, the BEAMS 3S was significantly superior to the first, second, and third generations as it had bigger intake valves, better variable valve timing, and more compression.

Compression was increased to an impressive 11.5 on the last generation of the BEAMS. This last generation is known as the BEAMS black top.

The black top is pretty exotic because it has titanium valves which reside at 35 millimeters for the intake – an impressive intake valve size for this engine displacement.

The included valve angle is also a bit narrower in the fourth and fifth generations of the 3S, which is another thing that helps better performance. For the 3S-GTE particularly, variable valve mechanisms were simply dropped.

You have a nice turbo, and you get boost, so Toyota thought, “who cares about variable valve timing?”

The ignition system was also improved in generations four and five, moving from a distributor-based system to a much more accurate coil-on-plug system.

Regarding the compression, we can see the compression increased from generation one to two of the 3S-GTE but dropped for the 3^rd generation. This is accompanied by an increase in boost, on the other hand.

All 3SGTE engines are single turbo setups, and the turbo changes for each generation. This is probably why there is an increase in power.

It’s also worth noting that the fourth and fifth gen Japan-only 3SGTE engines have something you do not see every day: the exhaust turbine housing of the turbo is cast together with the exhaust manifold, which means that the stock manifold and turbo are inseparable.

The intercooler also changed from generation to generation and went from a water-to-air type to an air-to-air type. The water-to-air type is an apparent preference to air-to-air.

Factory boost also increased from generation to generation, and it peaked at 13 psi for generations three, four, and five. The boost fuel cut also increased and peaked at 21 psi.

3SGTE Tuning Potential

To increase the power output of this engine, some possible options include:

• Installing a larger turbocharger: This will increase the air entering the engine, resulting in more power.
• Upgrading the intercooler: The intercooler is responsible for reducing the temperature of the compressed air entering the engine. An upgraded intercooler will be more efficient at reducing the temperature of the air, which will result in more power.
• Installing a high-performance exhaust system: This will reduce backpressure in the exhaust system, allowing the engine to breathe more efficiently, resulting in more power.
• Installing a high-performance intake system will increase the air entering the engine, resulting in more power.
• Upgrading the fuel injectors: larger fuel injectors will allow the engine to receive more fuel, resulting in more power.
• Upgrading the ignition system will ensure that the engine receives the maximum spark, which will result in more power.
• Upgrading the engine management system will allow you to fine-tune the engine for maximum power output.

Note: It’s important to note that these modifications will require professional installation and tuning and may also require other supporting modifications. Additionally, it’s also important to note that these modifications will void the warranty of your engine and may cause unexpected damage if not done correctly.

Many old articles criticize the ignition system of the 3S-GTE, and they usually talk about cap/rotor wear, etc. Over 700 WHP can be made using the stock ignition system. With the right upgrades and correct tuning, the 3S-GTE can be translated into a supercar killer.

Note#2: WHP figures below are for a second-gen 3S-GTE installed in an SW20 MR2.

For a Stage 1 upgrade, we recommend letting the engine breathe a bit better. This can best be achieved by upgrading the exhaust system. By increasing the diameter of the exhaust pipes or installing a test pipe, you can expect better overall airflow and some power gain.

This would result in a much louder and meaner-sounding car. Moreover, the boost can be increased to around 15-16 psi with an aftermarket boost controller, either manual or electronic. That is the beauty of installing a better flowing exhaust - your turbo also performs better!

The aim should be to bypass the factory boost control setting programmed in the ECU. Also, make sure to install an aftermarket boost gauge. Fuel gets cut at a certain point when the turbo is spinning, and to avoid this, you would also need a fuel-cut defender.

The overboost fuel cut limit from the factory is set to low psi levels, so this step is essential. You can expect anywhere between 200-230 WHP from a Stage 1 upgrade.

Going one step further towards the Stage 2 tuned 3S-GTE, we would find that it is necessary to upgrade the turbocharger. The factory stock CT20b is a great turbo, and with some minor upgrades, for example, a 46-trim compressor wheel or 10-degree exhaust wheel clip, the power rating can be increased.

Alongside this, an upgraded air intake (free-flowing) and an upgraded intercooler would work well.

A wide-band O2 sensor is a type of sensor that is installed in the exhaust system of an engine and measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas. This information is then used to calculate the engine’s AFR.

When tuning a Toyota 3S-GTE engine, a wide-band O2 sensor can monitor AFR in real-time and adjust the engine management system accordingly to ensure that the engine is running at the optimal AFR.

This can help increase power output by ensuring that the engine receives the correct amount of fuel for the amount of air it is receiving.

Additionally, installing a wide-band O2 sensor can help identify and diagnose any issues with the engine’s fuel system, such as a malfunctioning fuel injector or a clogged air filter.

It is advised not to run leaner than 12.0:1. A Stage 2 tuned vehicle would produce nearly 250-280 WHP.

Finally, a Stage 3 tuned 3S-GTE would have many upgraded components, and the true potential of the 3S-GTE would start to unleash.

A Stage 3 tune would include all the previous upgrades and is the stage where the factory fuel system and ECU will be upgraded.

This is also the stage where upgrading the clutch and flywheel is recommended.

One option for a clutch upgrade is to install a high-performance, single-mass flywheel, and clutch kit. This will reduce the rotational mass of the flywheel, allowing the engine to rev more quickly and provide more power.

A high-performance clutch kit will also have a higher clamp load and more durable construction.

Another option is to install a twin-disc clutch. A twin-disc clutch consists of two friction discs, which increases the clutch’s capacity to transmit power from the engine to the transmission. This can handle more power and torque than a single-disc clutch, but it also tends to be more expensive.

A third option is to install a ceramic clutch made from ceramic materials rather than metal.

These are known for their high heat resistance, durability, and ability to handle high power and torque loads.

It’s important to note that a clutch upgrade will also require the installation of a high-performance pressure plate, which will help to transmit the increased power from the engine to the transmission.

The power rating can go much higher than this, but that would require the engine to be rebuilt with new forged components to withstand tougher conditions.

Out of a fully forged engine, you can expect anywhere between 750-800 WHP.

In terms of engine internals, some options include:

• Installing high-performance connecting rods
• Installing high-performance pistons
• Installing a high-performance crankshaft
• Installing a high-performance cylinder head

3SGTE Reliability & Common Issues

A 20+-year-old turbocharged engine will be as reliable as your wallet allows.

Don’t be surprised if stuff like belts, seals, or hoses break because the engine wasn’t appropriately maintained in the past.

You would want to go towards quality parts only to ensure that your engine performs at its best and for a long time.

The Toyota 3S engine is reliable and excellent for potential project builds.

If you’re willing to invest the time, and effort and, most importantly, put some money into a 3S-GTE, you will probably end up with a killer, high-performing machine.

The post Toyota 3SGTE – The Ultimate Guide first appeared on Drifted.com.

The drift scene, the JDM drifting equation as we know it, all came about as we know it thanks to a renowned driver by the name of Keiichi Tsuchiya, nicknamed “The Drift King”

He was so skilled that whenever he went on the track, it was sealed before it started – think of Lewis Hamilton’s dominance around 2020.

The talented Tsuchiya decided to relight the stands by taking his car sideways across the tarmac and around the corners with unprecedented slip angles, lighting up the tires and creating a smoke show to squeeze the heart.

The engine’s roar, the tire’s squeal, the burnt rubber’s smell, and the tension of a seemingly out-of-control car hooked the spectators like a moth to the flame.

To the crowd, it was a newfound excitement and experience.

To the drivers, it was a rub in the wound.

To Tsuchiya, it was a demonstration of prowess.

To Japan – it was the birth of a culture.

Propelling Tsuchiya to those levels was his humble Toyota AE86, conventionally known as the Corolla, which housed the engine we are all over in this article.

The car is a shell of its stock self, full to the brim with upgrades, yet all were in the spirit of the little gymnast of a car.

You can read more about Keiichi Tsuchiya AE86 Trueno in our in-depth guide, but if you’re more interested in the 4AGE itself, you’ll want to continue reading.

Which Cars Have the Toyota 4AGE Engine?

The 4A-GE came about with five generations starting in 1983 and coming to a close in 2000.

The car most known for this engine, the AE86, only housed the first three generations: blue, big port blacktop and redtop, and small port redtop.

These are the cars that housed the legendary engine to look for if you want to have an engine transplant or parts.

• AA63 Carina 1983.06-1985 (Japan only)
• AT160 Carina 1985-1988 (Japan only)
• AT171 Carina 1988-1992 (Japan only)
• AA63 Celica 1983-1985
• AT160 Celica 1985-1989
• AE82 Corolla saloon, FX 1984.10-1987
• AE86 Corolla Levin 1983.05-1987
• AE92 Corolla 1987-1993
• AT141 Corona 1983.10-1985 (Japan only)
• AT160 Corona 1985-1988 (Japan only)
• AW11 MR2 1984.06-1989
• AE82 Sprinter 1984.10-1987 (Japan only)
• AE86 Sprinter Trueno 1983.05-1987 (Japan only)
• AE92 Sprinter 1987-1992 (Japan only)
• AE82/AE92 Corolla GLi Twincam/Conquest RSi 1986-1993 (South Africa)
• Chevrolet Nova Twin Cam (based on Corolla AE82) 1988
• Geo Prizm GSi (based on Toyota AE92 chassis) 1990-1992

Toyota 4AGE Engine Specifications

Let’s get a quick look at the specs before discussing them in detail.

• Engine displacement: 1.6 L (1,587 cc)
• Power: 86-95 kW (115-128 hp; 117-130 PS) at 6,600 RPM
• Torque: 15.1 kg⋅m (148 N⋅m; 109 lb-ft) at 5,800 rpm
• Redline: 7,600 rpm
• Layout: DOHC Inline-4
• Bore and Stroke: 81 mm x 77 mm (3.19 in × 3.03 in)
• Dry Weight (with T50 gearbox): 154 kg (340 lb)
• Valves: 16 valves (4 per each cylinder) or 20 valves in 4th and 5th generations – 5 per cylinder
• Fuel Delivery System: MPFI

Boasting a dual overhead cam design, the engine sports individual cams to regulate the intake and exhaust valves.

Sliding right into the valves, there is a total of 16, four for each cylinder, two for intake, and two for exhaust. This allows for finer control to optimize fuel efficiency and impressive performance.

For the 4th and 5th generations, the car boasted 20 valves – 5 per cylinder.

While all the hype and love around it in the JDM drifting community is warranted, one has to remember that the car was originally designed for your average run-of-the-mill grocery-getter. After all, it’s a Corolla.

The 1.6-liter engine, which is half your daily intake of water, combusts to a power of 115 horsepower in the first generation to 128 ponies in the third generation, and it peaks that power at 6000 RPM.

Those power units are derived from their leveraging brethren, 148-newton-meters or 109-pound-feet of responsive torque. It is responsive due to its naturally aspirated nature and the quad valve design.

Each valve has its valve spring, meaning it is faster to respond and is lighter on its own two feet than a big single massive valve for the intake or exhaust. This design also enables more effective use of the cylinder head space, and more air volume is moved into the engine.

The cylinders are 81 mm, or 3.19 inches, in diameter and have a range of vertical motion of 77 mm, or 3.03 inches.

This near one-to-one bore-to-stroke ratio gave the RWD 4A-GE a chance to rev itself to the happiness of 7600 RPMs, with room to spare if aided with upgrades and the already forged crankshaft built-in.

For reference, part of the reason Formula 1 engines are so rev happy is the bore-to-stroke ratio, for the late V10s of the early 2000s a 2.17 and went to 20,000 RPMs and the current V6s have a bore-to-stroke ratio of 1.51 and go to 15000.

While materials and construction surely and definitely play a role, the idea that the piston must travel less means that it has to cover less distance in a single revolution, meaning it has to dissipate and work will less energy, forces, and stresses, which allows for higher and higher rev ranges.

Toyota 4AGE Tuning & Upgrade Potential

Now, we mentioned the aid of upgrades above, and here is where we crash tail first into that garage.

When the engine was first born, it was not even considered for anything other than a light and fun engine that didn’t break every couple of throttle pumps.

Back then, with that level of engineering, the engine seemed to have already been pushed to its absolute limit.

A tiny 1.6 liter, all one could think of to make that little funky thing to make more power was a turbo. But that lagged, especially back then, and usual upgrades barely netted anything, hardly reaching the 150 horses at best at the crank.

Yet, race-trim engines emerged, smashing the 200 at the wheels. A complete double at the wheels is nothing to scoff at, especially when it’s all engine.

So how did these engines achieve their powers?

The main takeaway from such an endeavor is purely an equation of how much air the engine can effectively take in and how much combustion energy is directed at moving the pistons rather than being wasted heat.

To start, strengthening the bottom end caps to handle more power, especially when adding an 80 hp nitrous bottle.

Next, increasing the displacement by using a stroker crankshaft along with a little bore, increases the engine displacement by 9%.

Culminate that with increasing the higher compression ratio, the ratio of the volume at the bottom of the stroke to that at the top of the stroke is also referred to as top dead and bottom dead centers. The engine is originally at 10:1 and was bumped up to 12.3:1.

Of course, to complete the seal, the oil and piston rings have to be brought up to par.

Breathing has to be optimized with independent throttle bodies, as well as bigger valves and valve seating.

Of course, with all that new power output, the radiators and cooling systems have to be given some proper upbringing.

The naturally aspirated engine’s potential has been found at 280 horsepower at 12,000 RPMs, but adding forced induction raises the bar significantly, combining that high rev capability with rather considerable amounts of boost would be the formula for huge amounts of power.

Israel Chino’s high revving, boosted 4A-GE build is a testament to that like no other! A 900hp car on a 900kg chassis that is a 1:1 power-to-weight ratio, on par or even above that of the most elite supercars.

Check out Israel’s insane build in this video:

If you are interested in the process of building such an engine, this two-part mini-series will give you a good idea and insight on what such an impressive build entails:

Toyota 4AGE Engine Swaps

The 4A-GE is such a great and renowned engine that is a common engine swap for people with other small cars that do not have it have been looking towards swapping their engines for it.

It is such a strong and reliable engine for its weight class that it truly turned heads, especially with the potential it houses.

While most of the 4A-GE’s are used in the same chassis they were assigned to, or even using a newer generation like upgrading from a 16 valve to a 20 valve, some other cars were fitted with 4A-GE

Have you ever heard of a 4A-GE Toyota Hilux? Probably not, but now you have; check this out:

Trust me, small engines have their place in small cars. Sure, 600 and 1000-horsepower engines are a brag, I’ll admit. But there is something special about small and nimble, like a bee.

How about a Ford Escort MK2,fitted with a 4A-GE? Could Ford’s lightweight rally legend give the AE86 a run for its money?

And for racecar applications? Light and nimble is what defines rally and rallycross, and a lot of affordable tracktoys.

Inspired by the formula atlantic 4A-GE, this little Starlet’s high performance engine is a monster, capable of achieving 11.500 RPMs. Fully built, engineered, and tuned by Mikko Kataja.

Producing a whopping 260 horses to his 760kg chassis. If you were to scale that up to GTR’s weight of 1700, which is 2.24 times the weight. That would make 582 horsepower for that weight.

So this little 11,000 rpm Starlet is in the same power-to-weight ratio class of the GTR. The only difference is it’s a hell of a lot lighter and being high RPM NA, it possesses unparalleled response levels.

Why is the power-to-weight ratio so important? It is related to newton’s second law: F=M*a, and its angular companion: t=I*????.

The acceleration of a said object is F/M, force to mass ratio, in other words, power (derived from the force of torque at a given RPM) to weight. This would give a consistent metric of the car’s performance in a straight line.

Toyota 4AGE Reliability & Common Issues

As mentioned above, the engine is in a car that is meant to be a daily driver, so as a result, it is designed for the best reliability.

Now, the engine is an old one for sure, so it will not be free of issues, but that said, it can easily be a daily driver that you can count on and deal with on a daily basis.

If you decide to go for a completely JDM spec of the engine, the only hassle you might find is sourcing parts from Japan, as those are going to be difficult to obtain and deal with.

Otherwise, this is a Japanese car, a daily driver one, so all your issues would not be engine block related unless you opt to go crazy with the upgrades.

Filters, coolers, and maybe simple leaks are likely all you will encounter.

Initial D 4AGE AE86

To be fair to our readers, please note the existence of spoilers for Initial D starting stage 2 final stage.

Let’s get to the meat and potatoes on this one. You might have heard of this engine simply by watching or reading Initial D Anime/manga.

The AE86 of Takumi was a first-generation model, both in chassis and engine (a bluetop), and amid the events of the Anime’s timeline, the engine was already at the end of its lifespan, already abused by Takumi’s father beforehand. It was also updated with some soft upgrades by TRD: high tension wires and a close ratio gearbox.

The engine suffered terminal damage during one of the races against an Evo III GSR. and was then replaced by a racing spec 4A-GE from a group A AE101 purpose-built by TRD.

Being a purpose-built racing engine, it surely passed over many road legalizing rules that would qualify the engine for road use, and that Takumi’s father’s friend, Yuichi, alluded to several times. That build of the 4A-GE made 240 horsepower and ran up to 12,000 RPM.

Although later in the series, the engine was tuned to make its most useful power at around 9,000 RPM to decrease stresses and preserve the engine. the extra 3,000 RPMs were left as a last-resort effort to make or break a battle.

4AGE Conclusion

Are your eyes on a 4A-GE? Swapping it into your MR2? Sourcing parts, replacing another engine? or are you just reading around for fun?

Did you stumble on this engine by chance, or did you own a car that housed it, whether originally or swapped?

Or, did you encounter the engine in a show like Initial D, and it gripped your curiosity?

Either way, we hope that this article has been helpful and allowed you to decide on the generation of your choosing or just satisfy your thirst for JDM knowledge.

The post Toyota 4AGE Engine – All You Need To Know first appeared on Drifted.com.

Introduction

BMW launched the N55 engine as a successor to its not-so-reliable N54 which was launched back in 2006. Let’s start off with a little bit of background into BMW’s inline-six history.

No doubt, the N54 engine was a fantastic inline-six from the German manufacturer. It was the first turbocharged engine BMW mass-produced that came along with both a turbocharger and direct injection.

Although BMW did produce the M102 and the M106, both were turbo inline-sixes, and are quite rare to find.

Otherwise, the company was previously known to produce brilliant naturally aspirated engines that were both reliable and powerful.

Engine Specs

Engine type / Cylinders / Valves per cylinder: VANOS / Inline 6 / 4

Engine management system: MEVD 17.2 Direct injection

Induction system: Twin scroll turbo Valvetronic

Power (SAE net): 365 @ 6500

Torque: 343 lb.-ft. (465 Nm) @ 1400-5560 rpm

Boost pressure / Overboost: 0.6/0.8 bar

Displacement: 2979 cm³ / 181.8 inch³

Stroke: 89.6 mm / 3.53 inch

The BMW N55 engine is a younger brother to the N54 and first came out in 2009.

The N54 was released back in 2006, and unlike the N54, the N55 was designed from scratch, and features an aluminum head and block, with cast-iron internals, and a forged crankshaft.

There were a couple of variants that were built, but the main thing that made this motor stand out was the use of a twin-scroll turbocharger – signified by the TwinPower Turbo lettering on the engine.

The N55 made its way into most of BMW’s cars after 2010, including the 535i, 335i, and 135i.

Do not confuse these cars with the M3, M4, or the M5, because those cars run on S-series engines, which are factory-tuned, high-performance versions of the same block. Read about the differences between the M3 vs the M4.

Whether you want to know more about tuning and reliability concerns, or you want comprehensive comparisons for the BMW N55 engine, you’ll find that this is the ultimate guide to the BMW N55 engine.

So keep reading as this guide covers everything you need to know.

BMW N55 Engine

As mentioned, the N55  aluminum throughout the design, alongside a total displacement of 2979 CCs and is capable of producing power between the 300-370 horsepower range.

Not too shabby, right? Especially considering a 2JZ-GTE with its twin-turbo setup produces 320 horsepower (in stock form, of course!)

The compression ratio is kept at 10.2:1. The BMW N55 engine also comes with Valvetronic (which is basically a fancy name for variable valve lift), and VANOS (Variable valve timing).

Both of these are incredibly useful in maximizing power delivery across the rev meter.

Oil usage in this engine is 6 liters of the 5W-30 or the 0W-40, but 0W-40 is still the OEM recommendation.

We thought it cool to mention that the oil pan is also made out of cast aluminum, and the cast iron internals are specially designed to be efficient and strong.

The N55 is also tuned for a lower boost. Maybe this is why BMW opted for the cast internals, and not forged ones.

However, the internals is still good enough for 500 WHP, and the single turbo with twin scrolls is tunable to 20psi, without risking damage.

That translates to around 1.4 bars of boost – almost double the stock!

The 335i is probably a fan favorite, being released alongside the legendary M3 model, to feature the N55. You can read about a special drifted.com comparison between the two in our 335i vs m3 article.

What BMWs Have The N55 Engine?

So, what cars will you find the N55 in?

Well, most cars post-2010 with a _35i will have one, since both _35i’s and _40i’s are turbo variants. The newer model _40i runs on a B48, which is the successor to the BMW N55.

All models with the N55 engine are listed below:

· 2009-2017: 535i

· 2010-2013: 335i

· 2010-2013: 135i

· 2010-2017: X3 xDrive35i

· 2011-2013: X5 xDrive 35i

· 2011-2015: 335i

· 2011-2014: X6 xDrive 35i

· 2012-2015: X1 xDrive35i

· 2013-2016: 435i

· 2014-2018: X5 xDrive 35i

· 2014-2019: X6 xDrive35i

· 2014-2016: X4 xDrive 35i

· 2013-2016: M235i

· 2012-2015: 740i/Li

· 2011-2018: 640i

· 2016-2018: BMW M2

Amongst this list, the two cars to keep an eye out for are the 335i and the M2, and for good reason too. The 335i has an overboost feature that pushes the turbo to 11.6psi with 370 lb. ft of torque. The 335i shares the same chassis as the M3 has a stiffer suspension and drives pretty smoothly on the road.

The M2 is another great car. The engine that comes with this special motorsport version features forged internals, and pushes out a whopping 365 HP, the best BMW has squeezed out of the N55.

The 235i also makes a special feature in the top 3 sedans with a BMW N55 engine, with a power output of 325 HP.

With the stock power figures, an N55 is definitely a powerful engine, but we know that you guys do not like keeping your BMWs stock, so keep reading on.

BMW N55 Tuning & Performance Upgrades

Starting right away, the BMW N55 engine is an all-aluminum design, meaning that it’s sturdy and can withstand a proper tune without blowing your engine, or damaging the internals.

Aluminum blocks are lightweight, and with the gray cast iron sleeving in the cylinders, the N55 can easily be pushed to deliver 400+ HP at the dyno, with a few decent bolt-on mods.

The twin-scroll turbocharger is used with the engine to ensure power delivery remains smooth. Remember, BMW wanted reliability more when they were thinking of the N55. With a good remap of the upgraded Bosch ECU however, it’s possible to pull out another 60 HP, making the N55 an even more powerful motor.

The twin-scroll stock turbo can be tuned at 20+ psi, but it’s quite a small turbo. Smaller turbos are unable to move large volumes of air, and a boost higher than 20+ psi is sure to cause damage in the longer run.

We at Drifted believe in the big guns, so we recommend upgrading the stock turbo with a single larger turbo. And if you’re wanting to upgrade the turbo, a Stage 2 Turbo kit should be what you’re thinking of. PureTurbos and Vargas are the two manufacturers that focus on turbochargers, but there’s a lot of other stuff to upgrade once you’re thinking of upgrading the turbo on the N55.

A stage 2 turbo will set you up in the 450-500 WHP range, and the stock internals need not be replaced at this point.

The first thing that needs to go is the stock inlet pipe. The inlet pipe or the charge pipe on the N55 is plastic, simply because BMW was trying to save weight, but plastics tend to degrade in the long run. Replacing is the only way to go here, and a good inlet pipe upgrade kit is offered by VRSF for $130.

It is a good idea, to also change all of the piping of the intercooler, along with the intercooler itself. The intercooler is supposed to keep the turbo cool; think about it as another dedicated radiator for the turbo. Oh, and you might already know, turbos generate a great deal of heat.

Currently, a great many options are available on the market for performance-spec intercoolers. Manufacturers like VRSF, CSF, Wagner, and Mishimoto are all on the market, and all are reliable for that matter.

The CSF is the recommended air intercooler and costs around 600$, while others might need a bit of custom piping to fit under the bumper for a clean install. Your stock intercooler may also work just fine if you’re not looking for over-the-top boost figures.

Another cool upgrade is the addition of an aftermarket air intake. Adding this will bump the HP figure by +10, the correct manner being retaining the OEM duct for a fresh supply of cold air through the front grill. BMS makes such intakes. Be sure to check your car model before you get one.

BMW N55 Reliability & Common Problems

We’ve already mentioned the problem with the charged pipe design. The plastic pipe will last you around 30k-70k miles if running on stock boost, but the important thing is more boost means more heat which equals a higher chance of the pipe cracking. And the tough part is your TMAP sensor, which measures the pressure and temperature of intake air, may become damaged in the process.

The N55 engine is one of BMW’s reliable engines since BMW greatly improved on its turbo inline six design. However some problems are still perceived, but we don’t blame BMW for the lack of knowledge, just for their over-the-top weight savings while designing the N55.

The N55 has a plastic valve cover, so that is again something that should be replaced as soon as possible. Even BMW engineers recommend changing the entire valve cover along with the valve cover gaskets, but we at Drifted prefer an aluminum counterpart, which should’ve been the choice in the first place.

You can purchase one for around 250$ from Mitzone with the gasket and seals included. Otherwise be ready to smell some burning oil, with potential damage to your manifolds.

Once you’re pushing a bigger turbo in the N55, or tuning for more power, the general rule of thumb is to change your spark plugs to colder ones, and we recommend using NGK one-step colder plugs if you’re planning on a 500+ HP build.

These operate at one heat range colder, and significantly reduce the chance of damaging your ignition coils, which would lead to engine misfires. We also recommend changing them after 15,000-25,000 miles, since the BMW N55 engine is notorious for burning through spark plugs and ignition coils pretty quickly.

Ignition coils therefore should also be swapped, replacing the OEM ones from Bosch, with ones from Eldor (costing 27$ each), and these are capable of delivering power more effectively, even at 600 HP.

Water Pump failure is also not unheard of in the N55, mainly because the OEM design is based on a composite impeller, which again causes it to fail at any time. Again, the disaster of trying to make the engine bay lighter.

Anytime might come at as low as 30k miles, so we recommend the Pierburg OEM-spec, metal water pump which will cost you around 350$. This will ensure your coolant stays in, and your fans stay quiet.

The stock fuel system on the N55 can be a big limiting factor. The system caps out at the mid-400 horsepower range, and even then is quite likely to cause failures in the long run. The N55 has both a high and a low-pressure fuel pump feeding solenoid-based fuel injectors.

All these three elements were not perfected till 2013 and may need replacement with either Stage 2, or aftermarket parts. The fuel pumps may be replaced by Fuel It!, which offers a complete solution to the problem.

The solenoids, however, need to be replaced timely, since they have a habit of sticking open, and spraying fuel continuously inside the cylinder. This can lead to an engine fire, and you may require an upgrade to Stage 1 or Stage 2 options if you’re planning for the bigger.

The N55 uses a chain instead of a belt to connect the crankshaft and the camshaft. The crankshaft on the N55 is also made from forged iron, another cool gesture by BMW that the N55 is no doubt a serious engine.

But the use of plastic in integral components has certainly limited it. Plastic rail guides are used for the timing chain, and this causes the hydraulic tensioner to break the chain.

On high boost, more stress is added to the timing chain, and this increases the chance of failure. If you’re not looking to spend 12+ hours every 10k miles, we recommend upgrading both the tensioner and the rail guides to better ones.

The last thing worth mentioning is getting your oil cooler, along with the thermostat replaced.

The stock cooler is only good enough for a regular day; on the track, you might notice engine temps running higher. This is also due to the stock thermostat, which opens at 120 degrees.

Replacing the cooler with a CSF bolt-on upgrade is definitely worth it, although Evolution Raceworks offer a full kit too.

The temperature sensor can be replaced by the Burgers Motorsport one, which opens the oil flow at 95 degrees. This is the way to go if you’re not too keen to replace the entire cooler.

You could even opt for the machined sensor that Mosselman Turbo Systems are offering; a premium choice if you’re thinking of using the OEM Cooler.

BMW N55 vs N54

BMW started from scratch when they were designing the N55 since the N54 was their first production turbo engine, and a lot of components had minor flaws. These were later perfected with the N55, and looking even further down, even the N55 got updated with the B58, which is even better than the N55.

The N55 has a single, twin-scroll turbo; something that is considered a unique piece of engineering. It solved a lot of problems that the N54 had, including misfires and exhaust pullbacks. The N54 had a twin-turbo design, ran on higher boost, and faced turbo lag; the N54 is free from all this.

The internals on BMW’s N54 are made of forged iron, while those on the N55 are cast iron. Even so, the N55 had newly designed pistons, rods, and other internals, which actually makes them stronger.

Overall, the N55 is a much more reliable option than the N54 engine, but the N54 just might be a little more mod-friendly.

The post BMW N55 Engine: The Ultimate Guide first appeared on Drifted.com.

Intro

Toyota is one of the biggest names in the automotive industry, with the company developing its first engine way back in 1934. We need not say more because the company’s name is enough for its reputation in the market. Plus, Toyota sells around 10 million cars worldwide in a year!

Having produced quite a few of the best sports cars from Japan, aka the 2000GT, the Celica, and the Supra, Toyota has made a name for itself in the sports car market.

The 2JZ-GTE, which sits in the heart of the Supra, is one of the best inline-six out of Japan and easily tunable to 500+ Hp on stock internals.

While all these cars are 2/4 door, sports model, and have a small yet powerful engine, one engine that’s often forgotten is the 1GZ-FE; a monstrous 5.0 liter V12, which is the only V12 from Japan to date.

The massive engine was fitted to the JDM Toyota Century, a car that debuted in 1967. The first model of the Century did not have the V12 – instead, it came with a V8. Specifically, the 1UZ-FE, which is another engine you could be considering for your next build.

It was the second generation of the Century (the G50) that had the 5.0L V12 – an exclusive engine that is not found in any Lexus model.

This is because the Toyota Century was actually considered above Lexus quality. Rigorous engineering and development had gone into producing the Century, and everything was done by hand.

An initial price tag of $100,000 was put on the car, however, today, you can get the engine for around $3,500. The car came with the option of cruise control, and a direct ignition system

Inside The 1GZ-FE Engine

Toyota specifically engineered the 1GZ for smoothness, efficiency, and less vibration. Smoothness and lower vibration are achieved through a shorter delay between subsequent power strokes.

Since there are 12 cylinders, power strokes occur three times as frequently as those in a four-cylinder at any given RPM.

Efficiency, on other hand, is dominated by the use of slant-squish combustion chambers, iridium spark plugs, and Toyota’s Variable Valve Timing with intelligence (VVT-i). VVTI works with the intake cams which control fuel entry into cylinders.

The completely counterweighted, forged steel crankshaft was installed in the strengthened block, which had a 60-degree angle between the two banks and was secured in place by six-bolt mains.

The silky-smooth 1UZ-race-derived FE’s bottom end served as inspiration for the design of both the block and the crank.

While the pistons were built from an aluminum alloy, the conrods were asymmetric and made of forged steel.

The ECU is responsible for controlling the valve timing continuously to optimize torque, output, and fuel efficiency while lowering emissions. It is intricately tuned to give the best efficiency possible throughout the entire rev range.

While the V12 is not an ‘economical’ engine in absolute terms, it is in relative ones when you consider the power and torque it delivers, with a real-world average economy of 7.2 km/l given for the 2-tonne Century.

Important information for the 1GZ-FE is given below:

Total displacement (cc): 4,996

Number of cylinders: 60-degree V12

Bore x stroke (mm): 81.0 x 80.8

Combustion chamber design: Pent roof type

Compression ratio: 10.5:1 (97 octane or better recommended)

Fuel supply system: Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)

Fuel Tank Capacity: 95 Liters

Valvetrain design: DOHC 4-valve; chain and gear drive links

Max. output (PS @ rpm): 280 @ 5,200

Max. torque (kg-m @ rpm): 49.0 @ 4,000

Firing Order of cylinders: 1-4-9-8-5-2-11-10-3-6-7-12

Spark plug type and gap: Denso Iridium SK16R11, 1.0-1.1 mm gap

Intake valve opening: -7 to 53 degrees (of movement)

Intake valve closing: 57 to -3 degrees

Exhaust valve opening: 41 degrees

Exhaust valve closing: 3 degrees

Oil viscosity and capacity: 5W-30 low viscosity oil. Capacity 8 liters

The 1GZ-FE has a forged steel crankshaft, alloyed cylinder heads, and two separate ECUs, for controlling the right and left banks of the V12. This allows the car to be running even on just 6 cylinders.

The 1GZ-FE has Toyota’s advanced mechanism system for controlling throttle motors. The throttle motors are connected to the throttle butterfly, which maintains an optimum throttle point continuously.

The Oil sump is made of steel and is of a pressed steel sump bowl design. We’re telling you the sump design beforehand because if you’re looking to swap your car with the 1GZ-FE, the sump is the first thing that gets in the way. You might even need to

Valve shims on the 1GZ-FE are designed to absolutely resist abrasion of any sort. This is achieved with the shim being coated with an extra hard titanium coating, which shows that Toyota used breakthrough engine materials when designing this V12.

1GZ-FE Tuning Potential

The 1GZ-FE is an underbuilt engine; that is to say that you’re going to have better power and torque results when you opt for replacing integral components. This will be discussed in detail, but let’s focus on engine ECU tuning in the first part.

Firstly, ECU tuning requires a lot of hard work. There are hundreds of different constraints that a tuner has to figure out, from programming throttle bodies to converter lock-up points and transmission shift points.

The air/fuel mixture is another thing that engine ECU tuning will optimize, and what this does is that it makes your car run ‘richer’. Torque pulls and high engine revs are going to sound a lot better, and power delivery will be pretty much constant throughout the entire rev range.

A fuel system upgrade with bigger injectors will also bump power figures up. Moving on, as we said at the start, you’re much better off with replacing engine internals, intake and exhaust manifolds, better EFI systems, and of course, that sweet twin-turbo upgrade.

Engine internals for the 1GZ-FE are available through third-party manufacturers in the USA. Performance manufacturers like Hartley Engines, Top End Performance, and VEP Racing, are all credible sources for forged pistons and connecting rods.

Hartley Engines manufacture the best pistons for the 1GZ-FE since they effectively optimize the dome of the piston head for turbo setups, which is essential when using turbos. We at Drifted know that without a turbo life can be pretty dull.

If you’re aiming for a 1000HP build, then a twin-turbo is definitely the way to go, and the stock internals will not be able to handle this massive amount of boost. The forged steel crank is definitely salvageable, but we’d say replace everything else, including valves.

The 1GZ-FE had an automatic transmission. Swapping this out for a manual will also increase the performance of the engine.

1GZ-FE Forced Induction

Forced induction on the 1GZ-FE will not be an easy job to pull off.

For starters, the engine is already way too big to be fitted in a small car, and after being fitted, it leaves very little space for a turbocharger to be fitted as well.

If you’re still planning to fit a turbo in there, you have to go for forged internals first, as we’ve mentioned above. Other engines like the 2JZ have forged internals from the factory, so adding a turbo is not going to be such a big deal as it would be on the 1GZ.

With that said, if you have the space for a turbocharger, and a set of forged internals, you’re ready to move to the second part of turbo-ing your 1GZ. Remember that turbos have different outlets on their housings.

These housings are of different sizes and have different-sized flanges which enables them to connect to the exhaust manifold. You need only match the flange size to the headers on your exhaust manifold.

There are a lot of different sizes of turbo’s that are available, for example, a T3, T4, T76, and so on. The turbo code necessarily specifies generic flange sizes, which are universal for all turbochargers and turbo pipings. GT3040s and T04z are two turbo options to consider.

Bolt-On Modifications

You will not find many parts that are a bolt-on fit on your V12, simply because the aftermarket support on this car is not that great. You will have to design a lot of parts yourself, but still, the following parts will be a bolt-on fit:

1) A Cold Air Intake

2) Headers

3) Cat-back exhaust

4) A Lightweight/underdrive crank pulley.

Again, these are very generic parts that will vary from car to car, but you’ll still find one that will fit snugly into your setup. You’re more likely to find these on eBay, than any other source.

1GZ-FE Reliability & Common Issues

When it comes to reliability, the 1GZ-FE is a very reliable engine, simply because the engine’s power output was kept low. This puts less strain on the engine. However, there are still some issues that need to be addressed.

First of all, the 1GZ-FE does not work properly if the ECUs are replaced. Notice that we say ECUs because the 1GZ used two ECUs to control each bank of cylinders. For proper functioning, you need to run the stock ECUs, otherwise tuning will take a lot of effort, as we’ve mentioned earlier.

A single ECU may also be used, but this may bring problems. For the stock ECU, since the engine was released way back in 1997, electrical problems arise, causing the engine to misfire.

The 1GZ-FE has wire-operated throttle bodies which are all independently controlled by the ECUs. This variable-length intake system was relatively new for the time and was not perfected for the 1GZ, which is why it idles at high RPMs.

If you switch to newer throttle bodies, the ECU will need to be replaced, and that leads us back to the original problem.

Electricals are not a strong point for the 1GZ-FE. Due to the less reliable and efficient technologies of the 1990s, the engine is well known to have had electrical issues in its early models.

However, upgrades for more contemporary electrical modules are available, which will make it far more dependable and long-lasting in terms of electronic systems.

Owners might also be familiar with issues related to power cuts to the engine. We assume it’s all due to problems with electronics, as well as a few small issues with spark plugs and other components. An accurate diagnosis will take care of the issue.

Another problem is that the 1GZ has high oil consumption which is one of the most prevalent problems for big engines released during this time period. Larger engines require more oil, and if the oil is not replaced timely, piston rings and valve seals will break.

All this is not something that is uncommon for engines.

1GZ-FE In Drifting

Drift builds usually feature an engine swap, with lots of torque, and lots of power. The 1GZ-FE is seemingly perfect for this, it boasts 12 cylinders which are more than enough for making a lot of power, and with the right car and a proper fender gap, a pro-drift car can easily be built.

It’s all about how the car actually comes to life while building it. A lot of trial and error is involved to create a good drifting car, and the 1GZ-FE is not shy of this. Purist drift enthusiasts often have an LS engine sitting at the heart of their car, but the V12 is definitely one step up.

This V12 Nissan Silvia is just one example of how well the 1GZ-FE fits into a drift build setup.

1GZ-FE Engine Swaps

We’ve seen a lot of cars with the V12 dropped in. One specific car that has gone viral on the internet is Smokey Nagata’s V12 Supra. Now Smokey had gone through a lot of trouble working on the car, which ended up making 1000+ hp.

Smokey’s work is all over the internet, and it has inspired other Supra owners to drop in the 1GZ-FE, and double their engine capacity. Complete billet engine setups are also available which are high-performance race variants based on the original design.

Hartley Performance manufactures these aluminum billet engines. The V12 1GZ by Hartley is capable of revving up to a screaming 10,000 rpm, which makes it fit for any supercar.

Other cars that have the 1GZ-FE installed

Coming back to daily drivers, we’ve seen the 1GZ-FE in a lot of cars. From Miatas to Silvias, and from IS300s to Land Cruisers, this V12 has made its way to the engine bays of many fanatics who have dreamt of having a V12 supercar.

We’ve also seen a Toyota Chaser, a Toyota 86, a Toyota Corona, and even an RX-8 with the 1GZ-FE swapped in.

Tired of the issues that come with Mazda’s rotary engines? “Simply” carry out an engine swap and fit yourself a 1GZ-FE – problem solved, ha!

Which Cars Have The 1GZ-FE?

The Century had become the preferred mode of transportation for members of the Japanese imperial household, business officials, and other powerful people of the country. It was the epitome of Japanese culture and engineering prowess. After 30 years of continual improvement, it underwent its first significant makeover in 1997.

At that point, Toyota had established itself as one of the leading brands in the automobile sector, and no money was spared in the creation of a new Century. It did not have the grand appearance of a Maybach or Rolls-Royce. But it was just as flawless, cozy, and sophisticated.

This second-gen Century featured the 1GZ-FE, and no other car from Japan would have a V12 in it.

Applications of the 1GZ-FE engine:

• 1997 - 2016 Toyota Century
• 2006 - 2008 Toyota Century Royal

Conclusion

Given that the production numbers of the Toyota 1GZ-FE are nearly identical to those of the majority of straight-four or six engines we face every day, it is still a difficult engine to find.

Its ability to support the vehicle if anything goes wrong inside the hood, or as we say, a backup plan, is primarily what gives it its attractiveness to the community and industry.

It also requires less maintenance because the suggested oil for the engine is a 5W-30, a high-viscosity oil that can last for up to 6,000 miles.

Additionally, the camshafts are operated by chains rather than belts, saving you from having to replace them periodically. The engine’s technologies are likewise cutting-edge and thoroughly thought out.

Although the 1GZ-FE engine has some difficulties and may develop more as it is an old engine and is not getting any younger, replacing any necessary parts will greatly extend the engine’s useful life.

The post Ultimate Toyota 1GZ-FE Engine Guide first appeared on Drifted.com.

• Displacement
• Configuration
• Power output
• Torque output
• List of cars that used this engine

• 1. When was it built? The 1JZ-GTE was first manufactured in 1991 and found it’s home in Toyota’s top of the line Soarer GT Coupé.
• 2. What is the displacement? The 1JZ-GTE displaces 2,498 cubic centimetres.
• 3. What is the engine configuration? The 1JZ-GTE uses an inline six-cylinder configuration.
• 4. Who built it? The 1JZ-GTE was built by the Toyota Motor Corporation, Toyota City, Japan
• 5. Is it turbo-charged? Yes. It uses a single Hitachi CT15B turbo charger unit.
• 6. What is the stock boost pressure? 9 PSI
• 7. What are the cylinder head features? DOHC (Dual Over Head Cams), 24 valves (4 valves per cylinder), on later revisions it boasted a BEAMS Variable Valve Timing and Intake (VVT-I) system.
• 8. What is the stock power output? 280 PS @ 7,500 rpm
• 9. What is the stock torque output? 280 ft lb @ 2,400 rpm
• 10. What cars housed this engine? Toyota Chaser/Cresta/Mark II Tourer V (JZX81, JZX90, JZX100, JZX110), Toyota Soarer (JZZ30), Toyota Supra MK III (JZA70, Japan and Australia only), Toyota Verossa, Toyota Crown (JZS170), Toyota Mark II Blit.
• 11. How tuneable is the stock engine? The 1JZ-GTE is highly tuneable, the stock engine is good for 500 PS while the bottom end is reputed to hold up to 800 PS without modifications.
• 12. What do engine tuners think of it? Tuners often turn to the 1JZ as a relatively cheap engine conversion for a solid and reliable 500 PS potential. 1JZ’s have been housed in many drift cars over the years from Nissan S-Chassis to Infinity G35‘s.
• 13. Does it have “cool” factor? There is absolutely no doubt that the 1JZ-GTE is considered extremely desirable.
• 14. How does it sound? Inline straight six cylinder configuration and high revving capability mean the 1JZ sounds fantastic when under load.
• 15. Are replacement parts hard to source? The engine came in many 90’s Toyota’s from the Soarer to three generations of JZX’s. Stock and aftermarket 1JZ parts are readily available in most countries.

Check out this 1JZ-GTE in action

JZX100 with 1JZ-GTE with TRUST T67-25G @ 450ps.

Getting the most out of the 1JZ’s capabilities

The ever-increasing cost of the holy grail 2JZ-GTE powerplant has made 1J owners even more determined than ever to establish the boundaries that the underrated engine.

From this, the 1.5JZ was born.

Combining the 1JZ-GTE with parts from the 2JZ-GTE will allow you to create a 1.5JZ, which can achieve 600 hp with basic upgrades, with the potential to go up to 1,000 hp with forged internals.

The outcome? We’ll let Monky London show you what to expect:

If you’re interested to learn more, you can check out our in-depth 1.5JZ guide, where we cover everything you need to know.

Let’s face it – if it’s good enough for Adam LZ to use in his BMW E36 missile, it’s likely to be enough for most of us!

So now you know the 1JZGTE specs inside and out why not check out how it performs in a head to head battle against it’s bigger brother; 1JZ Vs 2JZ.

Want to drift a Supra right now? Check out our Supra drifting game.

The post 15 Interesting 1JZGTE Specs That May Surprise You first appeared on Drifted.com.

• Displacement
• Configuration
• Power output
• Torque output
• List of cars that used this engine

• 1. When was it built? The CA18DET was first introduced back in 1985, this was nestled in the Nissan Auster “1.8Xtt” and “Euroform Twincam Turbo”. It was retired in 1994 after five years of service in Nissan’s (Europe) RS13 200SX.
• 2. What is the displacement? The CA18DET displaces 1809 Cubic Centimeters.
• 3. What is the engine configuration? The CA18DET uses an in-line four cylinder engine.
• 4. Who built it? Nissan Machinary originally, after 1985 the Nissan Motor Company
• 5. Is it turbo-charged? Yes. It uses a single Garrett T25 (.48A/R) turbo charger unit on a ‘T2’ flanged exhaust manifold.
• 6. What is the stock boost pressure? 10 PSI
• 7. What are the cylinder head features? The CA18DET features a DOHC aluminium cylinder head with 16 valves. The engine is fed from multi port fuel injection.
• 8. What is the stock power output? 176 PS @ 6,400 rpm.
• 9. What is the stock torque output? 166 lb @ 4,000 rpm.
• 10. What cars housed this engine? Nissan Silvia S12 RS-X, Nissan Silvia/180SX S13, Nissan Bluebird RNU12 SSS ATTESA Limited, Nissan 200SX RS13-U Europe, Nissan Auster.
• 11. How tuneable is the stock engine? Common knowledge within the CA18DET community is that the stock internals are happy to output up to 350 PS. This is only possible with the correct supporting modifications. Built engines have been recorded up to the 1000 PS mark.
• 12. What do engine tuners think of it? Engine tuners are favourable to the CA18DET, out of the box with the correct modifications it can be a powerful and reliable engine. The gearbox seems happy to hold the torque of a 350 PS build which is a nice bonus.
• 13. Does it have “cool” factor? In the UK S13 scene the CA18DET was always a little looked down on when compared to the SR20DET. The engine has a reputation for the bottom end to eat it’s big end bearings if not maintained correctly whereas the SR20DET has a reputation of being bulletproof.
• 14. How does it sound? It sounds throaty and aggressive for a turbocharged four cylinder engine. It sounds more ‘urgent’ on the limit then say an SR20DET.
• 15. Are replacement parts hard to source? Today (in 2017) replacement parts are becoming harder to find compared to a few years back however Enjuku Racing in the states, Nengun in Asia and JDM Garage in the UK all stock CA18DET parts.

CA18DET Engine tuning compilation video

Watch this CA18DET Engine tuning and drag racing compilation video and see what numbers these Nissan S13 owners are making at the dyno.

Custom built twin turbo CA18DET

Now here’s something you don’t see every day. A twin turbo CA18DET.

CA18DET full rebuild timelapse

In one of our favorite CA18DET videos, the owner shows his entire rebuild project from start, to finish before providing some fantastic footage of his super clean 200SX taking to the streets. If you’re planning a rebuild, this will provide some fantastic inspiration.

Top 5 Time Attack S13 video

Want to see how far the CA18DET can be pushed? Check out the bright yellow Dayda 200SX S13, it sounds fantastic on full throttle.

CA18DET 200sx at the Nürburgring video

Watch this video to see how a CA18DET equipped 200sx S13 copes with the challenges of the Nürburgring.

If you enjoyed that video, you simply HAVE to check out this version, he heads back to the ‘Ring in slippy conditions, with some seriously epic maneuvering!

If you want to read a more in-depth take on this engine then check out the 180sx Club’s CA18DET article.

If you enjoyed reading about Nissan’s CA18DET then why not take a look at the specs of it’s older, six cylinder brother – the RB20DET?

The post 15 Must Know CA18DET Specs first appeared on Drifted.com.